carlton newbie

If Mercian is 5 mins away then they might take the cotterpin out for you. They can be an utter nightmare!

Shaun
 
A mallet will be too soft, you need a hammer, try tapping the pin with the nut loosened first - sometimes they give straight away - that way you'll save there thread. if it won't budge you have two options, replace the cotter and hit the old one straight and hard with the hammer or cover with a piece of hardwood and hit the wood with the hammer. These can be infuriating sometimes. A splurge of oil allowed to soak into the cotter hole also helps.
 
Yep, keep the nut on or you will mash the thread and bend it. Undo the nut so it's flush and then smack it ! Mind the cranks and frame though. We had a cotterpin press BITD.

Shaun
 
Re:

Thank you all. I shall keep the nuts on and use my big drift to keep away from the frame and crank.

I have also been chatting to our local platers today, not as straight forward as I first thought. After being dipped the frame needs prepping. I told them that I would do that. Any body else had a go at this kind of job?
 
Re:

The frame and forks are now being powder coated. New head bearings sourced.
Just looking at stripping the rear wheel and freewheel to find that someone has had a go at undoing the freewheel with a hammer and brick. Time for a bit of grinding and off to purchase the proper tool.
 
Best way to remove the freewheel if it's U/S is to remove the plate holding the bearings (it's a left hand thread IIRC) and remove the cogs leaving the body which can be gripped in a vice.........again a left hand thread.
What colour have you gone for?

Shaun
 
Re:

Shaun The freewheel body is Right hand thread, if using the vice method don't overtighten the vice, use just enough to hold it. The vice can pinch the freewheel body into the threads and make it extremely tight.
With the wheel in the vice turn anti clock.

Keith
 
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