cannondale headshock service

[02gf74]

New to me, what can i expect to find inside a headshock, no lock out and feels like there is a steel spring inside.

Will there be oil and a damper unit?

Headshock is approx 2001 vintage.

the top cap looks similar in size and shape to shimano external bb, can the same tool be used to undo it?

All Info and advice appreciated.

 

[The Malcolm]

Re:

I have serviced a couple this summer. I think there is a good chance yours will be the same as this below. Sounds like you have an oil leak in there. That vintage of damper should be oil and air. There is a small return spring which is not shown in my photographs below. I have some other pictures I will post up later in the week.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... p;t=303433
This is a link to an older headshok but it also gives you an idea what to expect
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... p;t=306703
There is plenty of good information out there. I would recommend that you get the right tool to remove the cartridge as if you damage the shaft it will be difficult to get it to seal properly. Querty and Cannondale spares are good for supplies.

http://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannond ... il/3-40607

I replaced the seals using the seal kit from Cannondale spares and I am pretty sure that will be the same one for yours http://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannond ... il/3-40600 The bottom seals are easy to replace and apparently these always wear out first. Top seals are slightly harder as you need a brake press to dismantle the damper. You could try replacing the bottom seals first and see if this solves the problem.

What ever you do do not try to remove the black top cap by turning the aluminium nut on the top. The top cap is a press fit and rotating it will ruin its grip. Some comments on the MTBR said to twist it off.

Bruce

 

[02gf74]

Thx for the info.

Looks similar. I have discovered the top cap is lock out and held by a countersunk m6 screw, both removed.

There is a large nut that is turned by the cap that ive not been able to remove - is this pressed onto to thr shaft?

Unscrrwimg the nut unscrews the top cap from the steerer tube to expose the slotted aluminium cap. It looks like i need to remove that.

At this moment, i do not see what holds the damper to the forks, from below i see an air valve, i would have expected a nut or similar holding the dampwe in place.

 

[old_coyote_pedaller]

Thx for the info.

Looks similar. I have discovered the top cap is lock out and held by a countersunk m6 screw, both removed.

There is a large nut that is turned by the cap that ive not been able to remove - is this pressed onto to thr shaft?

Unscrrwimg the nut unscrews the top cap from the steerer tube to expose the slotted aluminium cap. It looks like i need to remove that.

At this moment, i do not see what holds the damper to the forks, from below i see an air valve, i would have expected a nut or similar holding the dampwe in place.

Before you blunder into damaging your Headshok, why don't you click this link? http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Cannondale+Headshok

Not sure from your description of what you have done, if you have unscrewed the cap fitted into top of steerer tube by using the nut that the lockout dial/cap is fitted to, you might have damaged the lockout inside damper. It is only supposed to be turned through around 90' to operate lockout and SHOULD NOT BE FORCED further. The cap screwed into top of steerer should have either 2 or 4 holes in it so the you can use a Park pin tool to unscrew it. Although in your OP you do mention the top cap the size and shape of a Shimano external BB so you might have just unscrewed that, hopefully.

There's loads of info online about Headshoks, YouTube videos etc, there's some but very limited stuff on the official Cannondale site. Have a read of the threads Bruce posted and click the links there-in to identify your Headshok so you can find info on that particular one as they are different from each other as to how they are dismantled and the tools required are different. The techniques and skill levels for working on Headshoks is a step up from a normal fork, very easy to eff them up by not following correct procedure.

 

[The Malcolm]

Re:

I agree please read up before you do any more. Once you understand them they are quite simple but they are very easy to damage if you do the wrong thing.

There is a lot of good research material out there. I have some more images of what I did. But too busy just now to up load till later in the week.

Bruce

 

[02gf74]

Re:

Have to say i am not a fan of reading manuals, i tend to take things apart and then ask questions when i get stuck but will read up those links once i am on the 'puter.

This is where i am at. Looks like i need to make the pronged tool to remove the top of the damper and leave the nut alone. As you can see i am able to remove the threaded top cap from the steerer.

 

[old_coyote_pedaller]

Re: Re:

Have to say i am not a fan of reading manuals, i tend to take things apart and then ask questions when i get stuck

Here endeth my participation in this thread. Yer on yer own, pal. :facepalm:

 

[02gf74]

^^^ haha fair point. Must find my reading specs......

some useful info here, with pictures, not that I have any intention of reading it!!
:?
http://www.fastglass.net/bike/headshok/repair.html

link to boot
http://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannond ... il/3-40397

 

[The Malcolm]

Re:

Are you sure that is the same Headshok as yours that looks like a different one to me. I have created a post with the images from one of the one I was working on over the summer. Both forks I was working on are from around 2002-2003'ish.

Please read up on the subject because it would be a shame to waste a perfectly serviceable fork by not spending some time doing some research.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... p;t=311689

I used the same replacement boot on mine. Looked better than the old one as it is not as slack.