BSA '86 3 speed - Sturmey-Archer hub questions

damnation

Retro Newbie
Hey,

I have some issues with my bike and need some help.

I got this 80s BSA bike with a Sturmey 3 speed hub from 86-3.


The first gear never worked since I got it. Everytime you switch into it, the wheel comes out of alignment and rubs against the left side. Seems like something locks up and the chain tension pulls it out of alignment.

Now I got similar issues with the 2nd gear it seems. Worked up my axle nuts now, cause I keep readjusting my rear wheel on the road. I can keep going with just the 3 gear, but need new axle nuts anyway. I had a look at sjscycles, but there is so many different ones, I don't know which one to order.

Furthermore, there were these black washers (like here: click on the axle, but they broke because of the misalignment issue and I couldn't get them in any bike shop. A guy in a LBS helped me once and said I don't need them and just put on some normal washers.

so 3 questions:
1. What is wrong with this hub?
2. What nut do I need?
3. Do I need those specialty washers?

Thanks for your help!
 
Re: BSA '86 3 speed - hub questions

Plenty of info on line. It seems you need the hub nuts and 2 tabbed washers that stop the axle revolving, as there is a torque on it in low gear. Without hub nuts the axle would just revolve as you pedal in low gear.
The last time I had an AW apart was about 50 years ago, and the far eastern ones were better made, but but very similar inside.
Raleigh fork ends were 5/16 inch to help stop the axle turning, but you will need the washers that obviously assist. There is a method for setting the cone on the drive side, look on line for that.
Perhaps you need a spanner that fits the nuts.
Nothing to do with BSA though, who made their own hub gbear till 1956.
 
Hey,

thanks for your answer. Sounds like the hub might not be damage and it is just to do with setup.

Will also look into how the cone is set properly. just found it on Sheldon Brown's website.

Any chance you know the size of the axle nut? M10 or 3/8'' or something else?

Thanks!
 
I had another thought, have you cross threaded the hub nuts? Quite easy to do with the flatted axle, but usually only screw on about 3 turns.
 
Hey,

I am very carefull with those nuts, as I had the same problem some months ago.
I had some tire issues over the last weeks where I had to change the tubes twice as the outer tubing was damaged without me realising, so got new tires in the end. I guess they were just a bit worked up.

What do you mean by "only screw on about 3 turns" exactly?

Thanks.
 
I meant that if you had a wheel nut thread crossed, on the flatted axle, it would only go on about 3 turns.
 
Hey,

got my parts and put them in now.

Axle nut is HMN128. Can't find the specs, but you can get them from SJS cycles or amazon/ebay etc.
Also got myself the specialty washers (Sturmey Archer 13/32 inch Serrated Lock Washer 7.9mm slot - HMW155) and they are like the old ones I had, but broke a year ago. Everything fits on smoothly and perfect.

And guess what, my first gear works again!

One issue I had before and still have: when the wheel freewheels it is rather stuttering and I can feel "tocks" coming through the cranks. What could be a reason for this? Insufficient lubrication of the hub?

Thanks for your help.
 
A little light oil might help, there is always the ticking of the pawls when pedalling top gear.
Adjust the cones by slackening the left cone several turns. Turn the right cone until firmly tight and back off one turn. To fit the RH flatted locking washer and lock nut you can tighten the cone a little rather than loosen, then tighten the lock nut. When the RH cone is set then adjust the left cone, washer and lock nut.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top