Bottom Brackets - full on expert needed!

[passiflora]

Tim I am going out on a limb here, but what I would do is either use resin..or alu araldite smear it liberally on the threads.

Screw Bottom bracket in...

Leave for around five minutes, then gently unscrew and leave said threads to harden for 48 hours....

Then grease and re-fit Bottom bracket

Worth a try surely

Nick

 

[bontyfiend]

I've used loc-tite on some pretty ropey bb threads, initially without expecting any success, but it's always worked so far.

I guess Araldite would be even more secure. In any case, it's a relatively cheap solution and in my experience a fairly permanent one - it just needs re-doing when you need to replace the bb.

 

[development_cycle]

Some more great suggestions chaps, many thanks.

 

[tatra]

Try red Locktite as it is much stronger than the blue, however a propane torch is needed if and when you want remove it.
Regards Carl in Fla.

 

[elite504]

Has this been covered already?
Cart BB where the cups screw to the cart' rather than the frame?

SJS cycles "Prestine Threadless Sealed Bearing Bottom Bracket for Frames with Damaged Threads"
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/prestine-thr ... prod16505/

Or its the ol' mavic threadless one, but you need the shell ends chamfered into a conic shape by a framebuilder, or guru with the appropriate mavic tool. And I think you also need the shell reamed clean to 1 3/8" IIRC. . .
http://www.bikepro.com/products/bottom_ ... avic.shtml

 

[gradeAfailure]

Has this been covered already?
Cart BB where the cups screw to the cart' rather than the frame?

SJS cycles "Prestine Threadless Sealed Bearing Bottom Bracket for Frames with Damaged Threads"
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/prestine-thr ... prod16505/

They're all for 68mm BB shells and this is a 73mm.

There is a product called JB Weld (http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php) that you could try using - mix some up, smear a thin layer onto the threaded area of the BB, enough to fill the threads completely, leave it for at least a week to fully harden, then take it to the LBS and have them re-thread the shell.

I've used it in an ovalised head tube which I then had re-reamed and it seemed to work (better than the coke-can shim that was previously holding the cups in!).