Bontrager Race Lite

[bikeworkshop]

Because I can't seem to leave anything alone.
New wheels, BCX Red and Blue rims on DT hubs with Revolution spokes and alu nipples and a Middleburn crank. View attachment 937129View attachment 937130View attachment 937131View attachment 937132

Alloy nipples?
You'll be sorry.
In 2030

 

[benjabbi]

Alloy nipples?
You'll be sorry.
In 2030

DT hubs, DT spokes, Sapim nipples. I've found the Sapim ones to be a lot more resilient than DTs which tend to crumble within a couple of years. Being realistic I have quite a few bikes so this won't see use in shitty weather and is kept inside. Also the way things work with my bike collection the chances of these rims still being laced to these hubs in 5 years is slim to none anyway.

 

[shepp]

DT hubs, DT spokes, Sapim nipples. I've found the Sapim ones to be a lot more resilient than DTs which tend to crumble within a couple of years. Being realistic I have quite a few bikes so this won't see use in shitty weather and is kept inside. Also the way things work with my bike collection the chances of these rims still being laced to these hubs in 5 years is slim to none anyway.

5 months

 

[rigidftw]

DT hubs, DT spokes, Sapim nipples. I've found the Sapim ones to be a lot more resilient than DTs which tend to crumble within a couple of years. Being realistic I have quite a few bikes so this won't see use in shitty weather and is kept inside. Also the way things work with my bike collection the chances of these rims still being laced to these hubs in 5 years is slim to none anyway.

I've read that putting a dab of blue Loctite on the nipple ends after building the wheels should prevent with water ingress.
I've been using Sapim nipples for a long time and they've held up well. I do use grease on the spoke threads.

 

[bikeworkshop]

I do use grease on the spoke threads.

I've used grease and oil over the years - I've come to the conclusion that grease is too much - the greased nip wheels seem to need a little more attention than oiled ones over the initial riding time.

Sample size only a few hundred, but variation 2x - significant

 

[rigidftw]

I've used grease and oil over the years - I've come to the conclusion that grease is too much - the greased nip wheels seem to need a little more attention than oiled ones over the initial riding time.

Sample size only a few hundred, but variation 2x - significant

Also depends on the kind of grease, I guess. I've been using blue Mobil1, the stuff Hope puts in their hubs; it's fairly sticky but does not form lumps.

 

[bikeworkshop]

Also depends on the kind of grease, I guess. I've been using blue Mobil1, the stuff Hope puts in their hubs.

I'm not so sure - I'd usually be using shimano or finish line, they seem similar to hope grease.

The conclusion i reached is that grease is a little too viscous.
The lubrication is primarily to even up the torque to tension relationship when building, as well as reducing corrosion over time. (It also allows lower torque to achieve higher tension)

Once the wheel is built, you want a certain amount of friction in that joint, to stop wheel flex in hard riding loosening the spokes.

As I said though, grease is fine in most wheels - but the larger or more aggressive rider on the lighter kit sometimes seems to get beyond its capabilities.

 

[rigidftw]

Once the wheel is built, you want a certain amount of friction in that joint, to stop wheel flex in hard riding loosening the spokes.

Are we still talking about lubricated spoke threads?
If that's the case, interesting point.

 

[bikeworkshop]

Are we still talking about lubricated spoke threads?
If that's the case, interesting point.

It's the spoke threads I'm thinking of.
It's a surprisingly insecure bond on a bicycle, unless you use nylon nipples.
and grease seems to make it even less secure.

Ebikes, especially with a rear wheel motor, are a complete pita because the hub is attempting to tear itself out of the rim 24/7, but the o/s nipples aren't readily available nylon.