Bontrager Race Lite rebuild, interesting history...

OK, maybe I'm as OCD as @44Racing and his exquisite Hei Hei, but these decals are gonna have to come off. Friggin unacceptable: the water application on the downtube decal caused a bit too much bubbling, and I put the top tube decal on backwards. It's really the top tube decal that bothers me the most. It can't be on backwards!!!! IMG_20220129_173825_0.jpg
 
Nope, it really can't!

I think the excitement got the better of you today...

Get her stripped and start again! ;)
 
Nope, it really can't!

I think the excitement got the better of you today...

Get her stripped and start again! ;)
I know, I think I need to take a Lamaze class. Although ...I already got the old decals off, which was curiously easy, probably because the moisture hadn't cured the glue against the frame yet. I suppose I could start putting on the bottom bracket and headset, but darn it, I want those decals on first!
 
What a shame! At least you know if will look stunning when they are in the right way around :cool:

If it's any consolation the last time I applied decals, I thought it would be ok to cut out the bottle boss holes after I'd applied the decal. It wasn't.
 
I feel your pain, I put some new ones on my Privateer the other day, an absolutely nerve wracking pig of a job! Even wet they didn't slide, I don't think I used enough soap? There's a few bubbles that need the pin prick treatment and like @slackboy definitely should have removed the bottle boss holes first! Are those from Velocals by any chance? They look the same as what I used.
It's going to look amazing when it's done though.
 
I feel your pain, I put some new ones on my Privateer the other day, an absolutely nerve wracking pig of a job! Even wet they didn't slide, I don't think I used enough soap? There's a few bubbles that need the pin prick treatment and like @slackboy definitely should have removed the bottle boss holes first! Are those from Velocals by any chance? They look the same as what I used.
It's going to look amazing when it's done though.
Yep, velocals. I had luck in removing the bottle boss holes before I applied them, but it was still difficult. I'll be practiced for the second try!
 
OK, maybe I'm as OCD as @44Racing and his exquisite Hei Hei, but these decals are gonna have to come off. Friggin unacceptable: the water application on the downtube decal caused a bit too much bubbling, and I put the top tube decal on backwards. It's really the top tube decal that bothers me the most. It can't be on backwards!!!!View attachment 599465

Glad to see my OCD is rubbing of on other RB members 🤣

This is an absolutely lovely build!! Can’t wait to see this one progress 👍👍
 
OK, finally got the replacement decals from velocals, and ready to apply. But before I do that, I have to take a BIG gulp and burnish some of the fresh powder coat off the headtube. Why? To use some 5020 psi JB Weld to apply this:

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Instead of applying the standard headtube decal, I discovered by accident that a jeweler on the East Coast had once upon a time approached Keith to ask if she could make silver and bronze headtube badges using his logo and emblems. He agreed, and a very limited run of these headbadges were made, not for Bontrager himself to apply to any of their stock frames, but for bike owners. So, I approached the jeweler to ask if she still had the mold and could she make me one? Luckily, she was willing.

The finished headtube diameter (with powder coat) is 33mm, while the jeweler's mold happened to be 32mm. So I had to carefully open up the curvature of the silver badge. And because mine is sterling silver, I knew some day it would tarnish and darken. To keep it bright, to match the silver ribbons on the panel decals, I hit the badge with a few coats of clear coat, which worked very nicely. Then I took out the Dremel and attached a sanding head, said 100 hail mary's, and etched the sparkly headtube. Squirted some JB Weld onto the back of the silver badge, and voila:

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And, while I let that cure for 24 hours, I successfully applied the panel decals to top and down tubes:

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I think I'll place the unused headtube decal on the seat tube. I seem to recall some of the older Races and Race Lites had circular badging on the seat tube, can't recall if it was top or bottom of the tube, but I'll contemplate what looks good. Once these are all cured, its time to return to the Mag 21SL fork legs, and to start assembling parts for install!
 
So, last week, right after applying the new decals (correctly, phew!) and the head badge, I tried paying some attention to the Mag 21 SL lowers. After many hours of combing the interwebs, searching for some weekend warrior hack I could use to restore that elusive gold tinted finish of the original lowers, I came across pigmented lacquers used for repairing and refinishing brass instruments (like a tuba or trumpet). Miraculously, the manufacturer of said lacquers actually makes a rattle can product of their tinted lacquer, called "Special Gold Colored #2105 Lacquer", made by G.J. Nikolas $ Co., Inc .

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Interestingly, the lacquer tint is very light, so it took probably 15 coats to get anywhere close to a gold color on the fork legs. The results were OK, but not ideal. The gold color that resulted appeared to have a slightly aged look, like the beginning of "antique brass". It didn't give that bright brassy gold color of the originals. Secondly, because the legs were so slick, and the spray was so thin, it was very hard to prevent it from running. I succeeded in fixing some runs with acetone and starting again, but the end result gives a mottle appearance. Again with my OCD, this was unacceptable.

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So, after much stomping and sobbing, I collected my spirits and returned to the interweb, desperate to find another solution. I think I may have found one, and will be giving this another go today. Cross your fingers!
 
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