Bombers

[FluffyChicken]

Bomber Z1 (1997) have the old Formula Brake standard - very hard to get adapter for actual brakes.

maybe this overview might help too:

In case nobody notices as it doesn't say, these show 1999 forks, not 1997 as it says before it in the text. Just in case people are assuming it's the 1997 line up.

 

[FluffyChicken]

Re:

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/M ... Marzocchi/

if anyone has any catalogues to scan, always welcome.

but just saying manuals and a few extra are also in there. last page has the tweaking guide for the fork up to 2000ish for different rider loads etc. and a bit about what each bit does

 

[iveto1983]

Re:

Thanks for that Fluffy, the tuning tips file is something I’d been looking for.

Sectionate, glad your fork internals are all accounted for. Have you taken the seals out to look at the bushings? I don’t think my bushings have ever been changed but there’s no play. What causes them to wear? Is it either too low oil level or contamination? I think I need to find some spare bushings now as it’s unlikely to get easier in the future...

 

[Lupilus]

Bomber Z1 (1997) have the old Formula Brake standard - very hard to get adapter for actual brakes.

maybe this overview might help too:

In case nobody notices as it doesn't say, these show 1999 forks, not 1997 as it says before it in the text. Just in case people are assuming it's the 1997 line up.

that is correct - though it might be interesting to show a wider view...

 

[sectionate]

Re: Re:

Thanks for that Fluffy, the tuning tips file is something I’d been looking for.

Sectionate, glad your fork internals are all accounted for. Have you taken the seals out to look at the bushings? I don’t think my bushings have ever been changed but there’s no play. What causes them to wear? Is it either too low oil level or contamination? I think I need to find some spare bushings now as it’s unlikely to get easier in the future...

When I purchased the forks, they were without oil. They ay have been ridden with an oil leak, or ridden hard for their 15 years before I picked them up.

I didn't take the seals out as you need a spare set as they are a single fit item. I have some more on order, and I am going to check the fit of the seals I did to make sure they are still seated correctly as this may cause some movement. I dunno, I am trying to track down some bushings too, so I may end up rebuilding them anyway.

The joys of an old bike, eh?

 

[FluffyChicken]

Re:

The bushing just pushed in, it is held down by the ring and seals. So when the fork is fully out it is pretty much only the bushing it is pivoting around. It only a small section held in by oil and friction.

No surprises you have play (even new bushing in a my Superfly still has play)

Pull the legs and and shine a light on the bushing see if they are worn...

 

[Lupilus]

Re: Re:

will take some time, need to research again...

cheers

Nice one, thanks!

Sorry, did some research in my browser history, can't find it again - maybe my memory fooled me a litte bit too ;-)

 

[Jullyo]

Hi guys, I just stumbled upon that thread.

I do have a pair of NOS bushings for the old Bombers if somebody needs it.
I bought it on ebay 2 years ago for my beloved Z1 but they're retired for now and hanging on the wall, and still have good bushings anyway.
I think I paid 30 pounds for them, from a guy in England. However, I'm in Canada, shipping should be around 20 CAD to send them back to England.

I had a few of these forks along the years and some had some play in the bushing, and would annoyingly rattle when applying the front brake.
I found that replacing the bushings would not always solve the problem, as if the lowers had worn where the bushings sit. Or maybe they were bored with too big tolerances in the first place, I don't know as I got all of them second hand.
Anyway, I solved the problem by using thin aluminium shims between the lowers and bushings, and they were tight as new. Obviously it takes some trial and errors to get the right fit without specialty tools, like trying different shim stock (or different soda cans...) , or using it on just half the circumference of the bushing. It's not uncommon practice on motorcycle forks. In the case of the Bombers, just be sure to create a lip at the top of the shim (same as the bushings) so it stays put.

 

[Lupilus]

great advice, thank you!

did it back in times with seat posts - makes sense

 

[Mikey08]

Just picked up what I think are some 2003 MX comps (internal rebound adjustment, dual air springs, alloy stanchions, big hole in each crown). The decals are missing so I cant be 100% sure.

- One valve/topcap cover is missing. Any idea where I can get one?

- Also the topcap valve cover is recessed into the crown so im baffled how I get the thing off. There is no room for a socket or spanner?

- The forks move up and down but have a kind of crunchy gritty feeling. Im hoping thats just bad oil passing through the shim stacks as I can hear a fluid squelching sound. It could mean dead stanchions though. Any thoughts?

- Im putting these on a bike for my kid so should I use 5wt oil instead to allow for the lighter rider?

Cheers.