Best Canti's?

[merckx]

what's the holy grail of setup tips?

 

[Agency_Scum]

1mm of toe-in.

 

[marin man]

I put a zipp tie between the pad at the back and then clamp the brake tight to the rim before tweaking the pads.....easy to set up then.....

 

[Agency_Scum]

Ooh nice one Marin Man!

 

[FluffyChicken]

Setup tips, well shimano straddle cables make it easier and are technically optimised around their setup (I prefer the style without the grey outercasing). You can then play with different amounts of brake pad stud to get teh power you like. I have run near the end before but found this allows the stud to bend So I usually set to about 2/3 along.
Medium profile (aka wide profile) I think are designed so the pads rest against the lever, low profile are not. They both work just as well, except medium profile are a little easier to setup around their power zone (iirc they stay in it for longer so have a greater tollerance).

But replacable cartridge pads!

USE the barrel adjuster, wind it out, set the blocks against the rim nice and tight then wind it in again to you prefered distance.

You can also take the spring out of the canti to set the pads up, then unbolt and pop them in.

Many other little things but hard to think of them. Oh and know how your brakes work... putting springs in backwards can be quite easy to do


also 987 & Eagle Claw + 231's does not work, 231's are a pain in the arse due to there small surface and slight up angling. Especially on my Alu-O

 

[shogun700]

NOS Suntour XC Pro cantis-the brake pads have these clever little bumps that stick out from the pad surface that sets the proper toe as you press them against the rim. I assume the idea is that they'll wear right off, leaving you with the correct setup.

Can someone explain why it's better to have the front of the pad contact the rim first (toe in) as opposed to the back (toe out)? I'd think if the back hit first, it would serve as a 'wiper' and clean any debris/water from the rim surface before the full pad makes contact.

 

[marin man]

You have a good point there it would make sense to have them toed out....but they always seem to squeal that way :? :?

I think the pad would never fully contact the rim tough as the wheel drags the back in with toe in.....it would push the front of the pad further away with toe out surely :?

 

[shogun700]

I think the pad would never fully contact the rim tough as the wheel drags the back in with toe in.....it would push the front of the pad further away with toe out surely :?

That's it right there, I never thought of that.

Has nobody ever designed a little wiper that would hang off the back of the pad to do a bit of housekeeping on the braking surface before the pad hits the rim? A bit of overkill I suppose, but it sure would be handy in the wet. I wouldn't be surprised if it was attempted and fell into the 'gimmick' category.

 

[marin man]

I remember some low end pads in my lbs that had a little nylon wiper on the back but they would wear out before the pad I think :?

 

[Neil]

I think the pad would never fully contact the rim tough as the wheel drags the back in with toe in.....it would push the front of the pad further away with toe out surely :?

That's it right there, I never thought of that.

Has nobody ever designed a little wiper that would hang off the back of the pad to do a bit of housekeeping on the braking surface before the pad hits the rim? A bit of overkill I suppose, but it sure would be handy in the wet. I wouldn't be surprised if it was attempted and fell into the 'gimmick' category.

Some Koolstop pads have an angled section of the pad, designed to "wipe" debris from the rim. Unworn, they also introduce a natural toe-in.