Uncle Monty
Retrobike Rider
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Late last year I bought a 1954 Hetchins. I am trying to sort out the drivetrain and need some help. It came with duprat cranks fitted with double Simplex rings, 70s Simplex shifter and rear mech and a 12-28 five speed block. The chainring bolts were kissing the chainstay and the axle was loose. Adjusting the cups worsened the fouling and the axle would alternate between loose and tight when rotated. I removed a very worn #23 125mm hollow axle and fitted a nos #14 129mm. Classic lightweights list both as being for single rings, but I supposed the extra 4mm would cure the clearance issue without affecting chainline too much. Couldn't find a # 23 at the time either.
Reassembled, the chain when on the smaller ring is only aligned on the third cog. Large ring to third cog looks awful. Is this normal? The misalignment looks more exagerated than I would have thougt a four mm increase in axle length would have caused. BB stills feels awful so I think the cups are shot.
The rear mech is on a dropout bracket, the original Simplex hanger having been cut off the frame. I am assuming the cranks, chainrings, axle and hub are all original. Could it originally have been single ring and three or four speed? Are four speed blocks evenly spaced in the gap between hub flange and dropout face or biased towards the flange?
Any ideas? Chris.
Reassembled, the chain when on the smaller ring is only aligned on the third cog. Large ring to third cog looks awful. Is this normal? The misalignment looks more exagerated than I would have thougt a four mm increase in axle length would have caused. BB stills feels awful so I think the cups are shot.
The rear mech is on a dropout bracket, the original Simplex hanger having been cut off the frame. I am assuming the cranks, chainrings, axle and hub are all original. Could it originally have been single ring and three or four speed? Are four speed blocks evenly spaced in the gap between hub flange and dropout face or biased towards the flange?
Any ideas? Chris.