Bafang mid-drive ebike modifications

[rwm1962]

My occasional commuter Orange P7 ebike conversion is on the stand to have hydraulic disk brakes fitted with associated fork & hubs. While there I've added a few modifications from NZ company Lekkie.

I already have one of their narrow-wide chainrings with an offset that greatly improves the chain-line.


They now do an improvement on the Bafang BB lock nut which is a bugger to torque up & it does loosen off.


The Onenut replaces the lock nut & cover & has a couple of allen bolts that lock the thread in place.




Also a new drive cover. This CNC'd cover provides a better seal than the original plastic one & has a grease point.



They also do a nice cnc'd crank set that is 'asymmetric to correct the Q-Factor issue that the Bafang BBS motors create. The left crank has 15.6mm more offset than the right crank.' A bit spendy but maybe something I'll get down the line.

 

[Mark Manley]

A photo of the whole bike would be nice or a link to the build thread if there is one SVP.

 

[grey-beard]

Looks good, I use the the bling ring on mine and it works really well, the drive covers look good and I've never seen the lock nut before, that must be new. As for the crank arms, they do look better and must be far superior than the stock ones, but, on the bikes I've converted, the cranks are so much further apart than before conversion, that by adding more offset with the new ones, it only makes it worse? I'd prefer completely straight cranks. Personally.

 

[rwm1962]

A photo of the whole bike would be nice or a link to the build thread if there is one SVP.

There's a build thread prior to conversion I need to update. This picture is version 1 on this P7. Forks, bar/stem. wheelset & brakes are different to the picture now.

I had a thread go on one of the motor mounting bracket holes - see 2nd pic, bolt to left of BB. It loosened off & damaged the thread & I couldn't retighten. I filed the remaining thread out & ground a ti bolt head flat on one side & put it in through the back. It was too close to the casing to go through otherwise & it means the bolt is captive so just need to do the nut up

but, on the bikes I've converted, the cranks are so much further apart than before conversion, that by adding more offset with the new ones, it only makes it worse?

Aye, I'll ponder that. I assumed asymmetric would be better but I never noticed an issue so far. The cover & ring are fairly new. Got both from Brighton Ebikes. I'm not 100% confident in the toughness of the axle spindle on the motor. When tightening up the crank bolts my senses tell me I could strip the thread easily so I'll be happier not having to remove the cranks to retighten the lock ring or regrease the drive gears so often.

 

[rwm1962]

One useful bit I added to the build when transferring the kit to this bike was the Grin Technology Double Bob to mount the battery. A lot stronger than bottle mounts. On a previous build I got some 3D printed frame mounts but they did rotate slightly, The double bob is rock solid. They can now be got in UK via ebay.

https://ebikes.ca/double-bob.html