Awesome anodising

[minor_LEGEND]

Anodising someone's used parts is not the same as doing brand new, unsoiled parts.

It's not down to the anodiser to take it upon himself to mount the hub shells in a lathe & turn the surfaces down to remove defects.

 

[d8mok]

@d8mok could you point out what the issues you are seeing are as I'm struggling to see anything other than the damage to spoke holes. genuine question from me, I have no dog in the fight.

is it on the end caps where there isn't any dye in the teeth?

More so the skewers that could have been polished to remove the deep gauges prior to ano in terms of prep.

Also if you zoom in on the pics on both the hubs and skewers you can see the anodising is textured rather than smooth like you would expect. Likely from what ive learned is from the etching process.



The inner part of the hub also seems to be left red too?

I guess it all depends on what was promised. If he said he was just simply doing to anodise them , then that’s what you’ve got.

If he was supposed to prep them , and come back like a new fresh item then I’d be unhappy.

Anodising new parts is easy compared to used as like anything … it’s all in the prep and personally I’d rather be told what is within their capabilities


Imagine you take your car to a body shop for a panel to be painted as it’s rusted. They paint the panel over the rust rather than sorting it properly …Would you be happy ?

 

[d8mok]

Anodising someone's used parts is not the same as doing brand new, unsoiled parts.

It's not down to the anodiser to take it upon himself to mount the hub shells in a lathe & turn the surfaces down to remove defects.

Agree. Depends what was promised and expected. For me it seems a half job.

 

[Stretch79]

The red inside is due to me not wanting to damage the ratchet ring within the hub so that was protected. Can’t anodise all the way through.

The hubs weren’t perfect nor the skewers tbh but I’ll take them to a local guy see what he says.

As for the finish @d8mok, the hubs in black. Were they gloss or Matt? Was there an option?

I just matched the end caps which were black.

 

[d8mok]

As far as I’m aware all hope stuff is shiny ano as is most bike parts.

Remember that ano doesn’t change the condition or finish. It’s simply colouring the oxide layer. So if you’ve a dull part , it’ll come back dull but with colour which is what has happened here.

You can achieve a Matt look by not polishing the item to a high shine first or even as GT did , you can bead blast first.

If it was me I’d of had them polished to a high shine , whilst removing any defects best as possible. Then ano. It would have looked closer to an original finish. This surely was explained by Acorn?

I’ve a pair of big uns in black which I’ve owned since new (2nd gen ones) and the colour is far deeper and smoother but I do doubt you’ll achieve that but it definitely could be closer.

The hubs aren’t too bad I bet once built up. But those skewers should have been prepped more. You need a good base to go at like many types of this thing.

It’s like that Alejandro Klein scammer guy on fb currently. He’s painted his own frame … but not removed any of the old paint so he’s just painted over the top. Prep is everything.

 

[Stretch79]

As far as I’m aware all hope stuff is shiny ano as is most bike parts.

Remember that ano doesn’t change the condition or finish. It’s simply colouring the oxide layer. So if you’ve a dull part , it’ll come back dull but with colour which is what has happened here.

You can achieve a Matt look by not polishing the item to a high shine first or even as GT did , you can bead blast first.

If it was me I’d of had them polished to a high shine , whilst removing any defects best as possible. Then ano. It would have looked closer to an original finish. This surely was explained by Acorn?

I’ve a pair of big uns in black which I’ve owned since new (2nd gen ones) and the colour is far deeper and smoother but I do doubt you’ll achieve that but it definitely could be closer.

The hubs aren’t too bad I bet once built up. But those skewers should have been prepped more. You need a good base to go at like many types of this thing.

It’s like that Alejandro Klein scammer guy on fb currently. He’s painted his own frame … but not removed any of the old paint so he’s just painted over the top. Prep is everything.

I went with the colour of the through axle which was black.

They’re not completely gloss no but not matt either.

I haven’t got a black hope hub to compare it with or I’d get it as existing.

Maybe a bit of me thinking it would all be prepped but maybe that’s something I need to to before the ano works.

Either way, I’ll take to a local guy see what he says and see if I can get them looking as new

 

[novocaine]

More so the skewers that could have been polished to remove the deep gauges prior to ano in terms of prep.

Also if you zoom in on the pics on both the hubs and skewers you can see the anodising is textured rather than smooth like you would expect. Likely from what ive learned is from the etching process.



The inner part of the hub also seems to be left red too?

I guess it all depends on what was promised. If he said he was just simply doing to anodise them , then that’s what you’ve got.

If he was supposed to prep them , and come back like a new fresh item then I’d be unhappy.

Anodising new parts is easy compared to used as like anything … it’s all in the prep and personally I’d rather be told what is within their capabilities


Imagine you take your car to a body shop for a panel to be painted as it’s rusted. They paint the panel over the rust rather than sorting it properly …Would you be happy ?

thanks.

I guess then it's down to if you paid acorn to dip, polish and anodise (which isn't the colour, it's the rapid oxide layer, the colour is the dye) or just to dip, anodise and dye.

looking at the originals I'd say the new coat doesn't look factory fresh but it's acceptable in relation to what was already there. unlike paint, if it's there and deep enough the dye has penetrated then the protection it provides is fine and it isn't going to fall off like paint so don't worry taking it to someone else for an opinion, get the wheels built and enjoy em, they'll fail for other reasons before the finish does .

 

[Stretch79]

thanks.

I guess then it's down to if you paid acorn to dip, polish and anodise (which isn't the colour, it's the rapid oxide layer, the colour is the dye) or just to dip, anodise and dye.

looking at the originals I'd say the new coat doesn't look factory fresh but it's acceptable in relation to what was already there. unlike paint, if it's there and deep enough the dye has penetrated then the protection it provides is fine and it isn't going to fall off like paint so don't worry taking it to someone else for an opinion, get the wheels built and enjoy em, they'll fail for other reasons before the finish does .

Unsure now lol

Like the original as you say weren’t the best finish to start. I’d hoped they’d be a nice smooth finish but maybe not.

I need to look at how I’d get them a nice smooth black gloss finish.

Thanks

 

[d8mok]

They would need stripping of the anodising , then polishing to whatever level of finish you are happy with. Then anodising again.

You loose a little shine when they are etched prior to the dye but not too much.

If you are happy with them , they will last a lifetime no doubt. Myself , I would be looking for as close to factory finish as possible.

Kai in Germany does Anodising for bike parts. These were done by him for someone I know. Note the level of prep in the before picture which translates to the finished item.

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[novocaine]

Unsure now lol

Like the original as you say weren’t the best finish to start. I’d hoped they’d be a nice smooth finish but maybe not.

I need to look at how I’d get them a nice smooth black gloss finish.

Thanks

to get a deep smooth gloss first you'd remove the old anodising (caustic soda), then polish to within a inch of it's life the aluminium, it has to be as shiny as a shiny thing from shine town. then before it can start to oxidise you need to clean it to within an inch of it's life, which is the next town over from shiny town, then straight in to the anodising bath. the reason you can't do the polishing ahead of time is it will oxidise before you get it to the anodiser and they'll need to redo it.

I've done small parts myself at home, but I wouldn't recommend others do it, there are some nasty chemicals.

cross post with d8mok. sorry.