avoiding stuck seatposts.

[Rampage]

Use an anodised post!

 

[mattbrown]

i just undo the seat q/r when not being used - lightly score the post when at correct height to quickly be able to get the post at the right height if it has moved

 

[sylus]

I normally grease the inside of the frame seat tube with more grease than a hookers back passage and back it up with copper slip on the seat post.

 

[saulus]

I have just fitted a rather lovely UNCUT black NOS X-lite clickon seatpost in my frame. Its shimmed to fit my bike. Aluminium post/Aluminium shim/Aluminium frame. Gone for the Grease option for the shim surfaces and the post. Should be all good shouldn't it?..
Although I am waiting for the inevitable 'Z' scratch on the post from being moved up/down with a bit of grit in there..Its gonna stick out like a sore thumb!! It had to be a black post tho, nothing else would of looked 'right'. I suppose, once it's happened its done

Off topic a bit but another :idea: I had was to offset the seatpost shim slit from the frame clamp slit to stop even more crud/water finding its way down into my frame and corroding it or the BB from the inside out.
In the Winter/Wet months my frame care OCD may motivate me to stretch to putting a pre ride dab of clear silicone on the bottom half of the frame clamp slit for further muck prevention..

Anyway, It's not exactly sacrilage to cut seatposts but as far as lightweight/ high spec s.posts are concerned, is the weight loss really worth the chop?? I guess it is if you are up there fighting for 1st place every w.e or a weight weenie!

 

[silverclaws]

The seat post Zed can be hidden or at least made more presentable with black marker pen, but shimmed posts I always put the slit in the shim opposite to the slit in the seat tube, the idea being more of a labyrinth for water to travel down and the fact that most of the nasty debris came from the back wheel, it was one of the reasons I liked Saracen so much they thought about that aspect and put the slit at the front of the tube on '92 onwards models. But of bottom bracket woes and water, I doubt water will affect a cartridge BB in terms of operation and perhaps not older styles, but the shell could rust, but if you have the under BB cables and anylon type thing for the cables to run in, just undo the screw to let any accumulated water run out. But as it is when I do a BB replacement, before fitting the BB the inside of the shell is well greased to stop water eating into the metal. The BB being of course the lowest point where any water should accumulate. Also in maintenance all the gas holes in the frame get a liberal squirt of lubricant, as it occurs gas holes are where water will ingress.

 

[SeeingisBelievingGTMuseum]

Going back to the old days even MBA and the good early race techs recommended Phil Wood Oil because it was stated that one actually had to overtighten the skewer or seat pin when grease was used. Have used Phil oil ever since.

 

[cce]

once a bike comes into the possession of people like us, it'll inevitably be buggered about with so often that the seatpost will never be in long enough to get stuck