Avid Ultimate brake lever refurbishments.

[Joe*Pro]

Dear all - help and tips needed.

I have just today taken delivery of a much searched for (+3 years !) pair of red/silver Avid Ultimate brake levers, at less than the price of a house.

Only catch is one lever is missing it’s pivot bolt and 2x washers. Also both bar clamp bolts need changing to be the correct cone top type.

Questions:
1) Does anyone know exactly what size correct replacement bolts & washers should be ?
2) Do I need to buy a micrometer to check ?
3) if T15 and H4 keys fit each bolt, does that help confirm thread size ?
4) Surely I don’t need to buy another set just to get the correct bolts !

Any help great fully received . In return will eventually post the +3 year build up once project is complete, along with the significant Bike Cave lockdown makeover ! ...with half dozen retro stead’s.

Joe

 

[mdvineng]

Hi, the H4 bolt is called a taper head and from the picture you need M5 x 25 or M6
The other is very rare and probably from aircraft type, you may need to talk to suppliers or have one made.

 

[ishaw]

Re:

Hopefully you can find what you need by searching for 'shoulder' bolts. The shoulder is the unthreaded part, usually thicker than the threaded part. I discovered this when looking for bolts to slot through bearings.

If you need the bolt to be the same length but not fully threaded you want a partially threaded bolt.

Hope this helps.

 

[mdvineng]

I've looked for shoulder bolts and aircraft ones all morning but not much joy. One possible solution is to use a countersunk barrel nut and either a grub screw and plain nut for the other part or a flat head bolt.

A bit like this example https://www.allfasteners.com.au/counter ... barrel-nut

 

[Joe*Pro]

Re:

Thanks very much. Realised after I posted I might have sounded a bit thick !!

Affirmation that the pivot bolt is likely not standard (or rather made to measure for the brakes) is helpful. If only to discourage me looking/spending for ages and on multiple Trial bolts. Also keen to not trash the thread with to many titanium v aluminium testers !! It was quite a fiddle putting the working side back in/together without scratching the red anodised lever section. All a very tight fit, in a good way.

https://www.pro-bolt.com/titanium.html

Will give these guys a go first, see if I can get something. But tempted to buy another pair just incase. Just for the bolts, then sell the donor once correct replacement bolts sourced/made thereafter .

 

[Joe*Pro]

Re:

And found these, just need counter sunk.

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/hexalobular-t ... gLKxvD_BwE

 

[ishaw]

Re:

Still reckon a shoulder bolt is the way, it's just a bolt to go through a bearing right?

You could find a threaded bolt with the correct cap and thread and simply add a sleeve over the thread.

Or find a bolt with correct cap size but larger thread, turn the thread down to the unthreaded size needed and re tap the thread you need at the bottom?

All would be cheaper than buying a new set of levers just for the bolt.

 

[ishaw]

Re: Re:

And found these, just need counter sunk.

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/hexalobular-t ... gLKxvD_BwE

Worst case, you can turn the cap into a counter sink head.

 

[Joe*Pro]

No bearing as such. Just that bolt and washer acting as the pivot/hinge going through the raw handle hole. Hence attempt to get exactly correct size or if am 0.5mm out will end up with rattley loose handle.

Agree a counter sunk Threaded with a Shim could work and be more future proof. Just the washer needs to be right at the top or won’t all squeeze back in. (See pic)

Will try get the exact shoulder bolt first, but currently looks like will be around £20 for a pair, so if not quite right and have to repeat order. Could easily get towards price of a donor set in no time !

Micrometer on order now.

 

[Joe*Pro]

So the cone M5 titanium’s turned up and fit the clamp perfectly for £6. Whilst half the bolts shafts middle section should ideally be smooth with just a threaded tip, but once on the bike you can’t see it internally anyway as it’s typically up against the bar grip. Could easily file it down later on if desired.

And the micrometer turned up to try check this shoulder bolt measurements more exactly...