Anyone into classic cars

Off to the Fiat Coupe specialist that looks after my car today - new engine mounts - then that 'should' be it for a while, I've spent more on this than its probably worth but you've gotta keep them in tip-top condition I reckon. Now then, do I go for a mild tune to 300bhp or keep it totally standard. I know what my heart says

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Off to the Fiat Coupe specialist that looks after my car today - new engine mounts - then that 'should' be it for a while, I've spent more on this than its probably worth but you've gotta keep them in tip-top condition I reckon. Now then, do I go for a mild tune to 300bhp or keep it totally standard. I know what my heart says
What is stock bhp? If the tuner is offering you an piggy-back system running different fuel maps I would strongly suggest staying away from such a system. If the tuner can offer you a stand-alone ECU that is the far superior option. You will pay for it, but you won't blow up your engine (if the tuner is good).

With a piggy back system, the tuner needs to either modify the ECU and solder into that and/or run additional wires from their piggy back device to other sensors around the engine, like CPS for example. They will need to "T" into the wiring harness.

With a stand-alone, they pull the OEM ECU, install theirs and you put the original in a dry place at home. You can then swap out the tuned ECU any time you like without issue to sensors or wiring harness.

An original dimma built peugeot 1.9 gti
Those wide fenders are hot man. Specs?
 
Don't buy an L322 Range Rover because it's 'cheap'...

£1500 and

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That's too bad. The older BMW's (mid-80's to early 90's) would also develop leak spots at the bottom of the A-pillars where water runs down the window and to the sides of the cowel. Those factory drain holes clock up over time, then water sits and before you know it, rust has eaten through the metal out of sight and you are getting water in the cabin on really rainy days. Did the one here in the Range Rover leak all over the ECU?
 
What is stock bhp? If the tuner is offering you an piggy-back system running different fuel maps I would strongly suggest staying away from such a system. If the tuner can offer you a stand-alone ECU that is the far superior option. You will pay for it, but you won't blow up your engine (if the tuner is good).

With a piggy back system, the tuner needs to either modify the ECU and solder into that and/or run additional wires from their piggy back device to other sensors around the engine, like CPS for example. They will need to "T" into the wiring harness.

With a stand-alone, they pull the OEM ECU, install theirs and you put the original in a dry place at home. You can then swap out the tuned ECU any time you like without issue to sensors or wiring harness.


Those wide fenders are hot man. Specs?
Stock should be in the region of 220, with 300 easily available without too much work. FC are pretty much the go-to place and luckily not too far from me. Didn’t spend much today after all - top link was a bit loose and just needed the slack taking up. Happy days
http://www.fcperformance.co.uk/fiat-coupe-20v-turbo.php
 
Stock should be in the region of 220, with 300 easily available without too much work. FC are pretty much the go-to place and luckily not too far from me. Didn’t spend much today after all - top link was a bit loose and just needed the slack taking up. Happy days
http://www.fcperformance.co.uk/fiat-coupe-20v-turbo.php
If your car is OBD I then that makes things a bit easier and cheaper. Their prices are reasonable. I think what they are doing is chip flashing. Basically they plug their laptop into your ECU and collect baseline data. Then they flash a basic fuel map to a new chip based off your stock parameters, install said chip into your ECU and run the car. Don't be afraid if it doesn't start or runs like shit for a few minutes. The tuner will then modify the AFR in real-time and keep reflashing as needed.

MAKE SURE the tuner has you drive the car around town. He needs to see what happens under partial and wide-open throttle, as well as under load (driving up a hill at a low rpm) for example.

I would also be curious of the stage 2 fuel injector duty cycle to see if they are maxing out. It is cheaper to run a bit more fuel pressure and larger injectors than running your engine too lean and blowing it up.
 
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