Anyone fitted 700c wheels on a MTB frame?

cchris2lou":15pqam3o said:
the axle is only 5mm shorter , so will be ok .

should be fine on a steel frame (or tI?) but i'd eb a bit dubious about doing it on a nice Alu one. If it's a cup and cone hub you can re space it (with a new axle if needed) easily enough, or if you want to get a spare apir of wheels built then just use a 135 hub.

|Squeezing the frame in puts undue pressure on your skewer too, which may shorten it's lifespan

Si F
 
with the bashing a MTB frame take , I cant see it making a big difference . but as you say , if cups can be replaced it is a better option .
 
On one had a scandal that came with 2 sets of wheels. Lock out the fork and fit the 700c's for a through the week commuter. Then unlock fork, stick in the knobblies and yeehaa. Think it used the same disc hubs but built with different rims. Came in under a grand for the BTW scheme too.
 
Here is a nice write up on a bike that goes both ways:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=238365

Years ago, Grant Peterson suggested the 1988 or 1989 Bridgestone MB-1 was designed to accept 700c wheels and the fork and rear brake bridge were drilled to fit road calipers. I fitted my road wheels onto my MB-1, along with the rear brake caliper and it looked like it would work well. However, I never completed the build.
 
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