Anyone else fiddling with their mamods?
- Thread starter bj
- Start date
Smiffy_no46
Retro Newbie
Re:
I’m thinking of doing something very similar!
I’m interested in how you get on with spares. I’ve got 4 mamods across at my parents (I will retrieve if lockdown ever allows!!) and they could do with some tlc! I think my daughter would love to see them working though.
I’m thinking of doing something very similar!
I’m interested in how you get on with spares. I’ve got 4 mamods across at my parents (I will retrieve if lockdown ever allows!!) and they could do with some tlc! I think my daughter would love to see them working though.
Re: Re:
Have become a 'mamod te1a' expert nerd over the last two weeks!
Spares: I did not realise that mamod still exists and continues to make numerous steam models, from their base in Birmingham. It does mean that certain spares are readily available, particularly from the various 'model' websites that can be found on the web. As a minimum you will probably want sets of seals which are cheap and available. Beyond that, all the spares, as a mix of new and used, can be sourced through the model shops or ebay. Certain spares command a premium, such as the older back scuttle, meths burner, and canopy because these items are often 'lost' by owners over the years. Minor changes throughout the production years results in slight difference in a few of the parts, so you need to determine the year and be observant of that when sourcing parts. In particular the canopy support and its firebox bracket differ, as does the firebox cowling and burner. There are a few webpages that show production timeline of various models.
Caution: There is an issue with older mamod engines when not used for some time. It relates to the removal of the safety valve, whistle and overflow plug when replacing the seals. The three items screw into a boss that was inserted, soldered and/or crimped from inside the boiler at manufacture and can no longer be accessed. The solder, and crimping is a weak point, particular if the boiler has ever been overheated. If the safety valve, whistle and overflow plug have not been removed for some time, they can get thread bound by limescale. Too vigorous an attempt to remove them can cause the boss to work loose rather than the threaded item, which is very difficult to then resolve, rendering the boiler to being potentially useless. So do give the three threads a good soaking with penetrating oil, and be cautious as to how much force you use in trying to remove them. Once the safety valve is out, check that the valve lifts, as it too gets stuck with limescale.
Smiffy_no46":1jqien9m said:
Have become a 'mamod te1a' expert nerd over the last two weeks!
Spares: I did not realise that mamod still exists and continues to make numerous steam models, from their base in Birmingham. It does mean that certain spares are readily available, particularly from the various 'model' websites that can be found on the web. As a minimum you will probably want sets of seals which are cheap and available. Beyond that, all the spares, as a mix of new and used, can be sourced through the model shops or ebay. Certain spares command a premium, such as the older back scuttle, meths burner, and canopy because these items are often 'lost' by owners over the years. Minor changes throughout the production years results in slight difference in a few of the parts, so you need to determine the year and be observant of that when sourcing parts. In particular the canopy support and its firebox bracket differ, as does the firebox cowling and burner. There are a few webpages that show production timeline of various models.
Caution: There is an issue with older mamod engines when not used for some time. It relates to the removal of the safety valve, whistle and overflow plug when replacing the seals. The three items screw into a boss that was inserted, soldered and/or crimped from inside the boiler at manufacture and can no longer be accessed. The solder, and crimping is a weak point, particular if the boiler has ever been overheated. If the safety valve, whistle and overflow plug have not been removed for some time, they can get thread bound by limescale. Too vigorous an attempt to remove them can cause the boss to work loose rather than the threaded item, which is very difficult to then resolve, rendering the boiler to being potentially useless. So do give the three threads a good soaking with penetrating oil, and be cautious as to how much force you use in trying to remove them. Once the safety valve is out, check that the valve lifts, as it too gets stuck with limescale.
Smiffy_no46
Retro Newbie
Re:
Wow, great response thanks!
Yeah I think it must be at least 20 years since any will have been lit! There’s a traction engine with hood (needs some cosmetic work), a steam roller that always worked well and two stationary engines. I’ll try and get them dug out next time I can and stick some pictures up. The roller even still has its original card box as it was my uncle’s from new!
I can see a night being lost on eBay now checking out old Mamods!
Wow, great response thanks!
Yeah I think it must be at least 20 years since any will have been lit! There’s a traction engine with hood (needs some cosmetic work), a steam roller that always worked well and two stationary engines. I’ll try and get them dug out next time I can and stick some pictures up. The roller even still has its original card box as it was my uncle’s from new!
I can see a night being lost on eBay now checking out old Mamods!
So, have been working out how to ditch the rivets in favour of bolts. The problem to overcome, is to provide something for the bolts to screw into on the 'blind side'. It would be possible to try and solder some nuts on the blind side, but it runs a risk that should the solder ever fail, the bolt and nut would simply 'twizzle' and therefore make it very difficult to ever dismantle again.
For the firebox I have fabricated two small brackets from a brass curtain rail, into which I have tapped the relevant bolt holes.
For the smoke box I have made a brass ring, again into which I can tap bolt holes.
For the firebox I have fabricated two small brackets from a brass curtain rail, into which I have tapped the relevant bolt holes.
For the smoke box I have made a brass ring, again into which I can tap bolt holes.
Attachments
Apart from allen head bolts to replace canopy rivets, the rebuild is finished. Have kept the bare metal look. Canopy is in good condition, so have left it be for the time being. Steamed it up today, first time in 25 years after languishing in the attic. Ran fine in all four forward speeds, and three of the reverse.
