AMP Research research

[ishaw]

Re:

Indeed the bolts are a touch brittle. While you gave the forks apart I'd be replacing the bushings etc and servicing the damper. I've got some kits direct from amp that may be suitable depending on what you have.

 

[Akula]

Has anyone replaced their fork bolts, maybe with Ti

 

[danson67]

Ti bolts?
I haven't, but there's no reason not to if you want.
The AMP bolt buttonhead shape is non-standard, but could be replaced with any standard M5 caphead/domehead etc.
All the best,

 

[Gerard]

Ti bolts?
I haven't, but there's no reason not to if you want.
The AMP bolt buttonhead shape is non-standard, but could be replaced with any standard M5 caphead/domehead etc.
All the best,

Dan
I'm not sure they are a metric thread. Roy and I have discussed this and think they are a non metric thread. Stupidly I haven't got a note of what Roy said he believed them to be. I'll try and confirm.
I have tried a button head M5 which fits but is loose on the thread until finial lock.

 

[Swede]

Re:

Okay here she is.

As you can see from the close ups I've got quite a bit of work to do getting rid of the silicone. Now the questions...

The frame number is F16221; any idea what year that's from?

I'm guessing that the O rings are normally there or have they been added when the silicone was daubed on? Ian, if you have a service kit for this that would be perfect. I'm planning on putting your old WI RX hubs on it at some point

Was the frame bare aluminium or was it anodized? If I polish the frame how long could I expect it to stay shiny; another 20 years?

I seem to be missing one of the cable clips. Is that supposed to go under the water bottle? I'm probably going to have to fabricate something specific as the LDMS uses four cables plus the brake i.e. five!

 

[dyna-ti]

I'd take note of your pivots on the fork, it that I had cracking to mine and had them replaced.
I can see a crack on one of them but the solution isnt too pricey if you know an engineer to make some replacements as i did.
Theres a thread somewhere about the work :?

Inside the pivots theres oil bearing sleeves that can be removed and pressed into the new pivots.

 

[danson67]

Dan
I'm not sure they are a metric thread. Roy and I have discussed this and think they are a non metric thread. Stupidly I haven't got a note of what Roy said he believed them to be. I'll try and confirm.
I have tried a button head M5 which fits but is loose on the thread until finial lock.

:facepalm: of course...
I just happen to have a pair of F3 under the desk...should have checked first :roll:

1/4" x 28TPI UNF buttonhead, and very short at only 7/32" long (5.6mm).
Make sure you use a fresh 5/32" Allen key.




Similar in Ti here:
https://bullantperformance.com.au/titan ... -p83801460
http://www.alliedtitanium.mobi/fb/produ ... =148375003
http://hlmet.com/142838unf-inch-titaniu ... Path=68_85

All the best,

 

[Retro Spud]

What a great winter project to have, its in such a shite state that rescuing it could be very therapeutic

Gotta love a well cared for polished up old Amp

 

[danson67]

the O rings are normally there or have they been added when the silicone was daubed on?

Yes, the O-rings are original, supposed to be there...normally just well greased and eased onto the gaps between linkages and the legs and crown.

Lovely carbon B5, well worth the effort of getting all that silicon off.

All the best,

 

[Swede]

Re:

Assuming I could find a service kit for either the fork or the frame. What's the workaround for getting the bearing shafts out? I found this picture which shows what I think are two AMP "pin press" (10-01610-40 & 10-01609-40?).