All rounder build advice

[Rod_Saetan]

Enik did some nice 700c off-road capable bikes. Tend to be pricey though:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-Enik-XC-B ... 1c32968c77

That Enik looks great!

I have been working (slowly) on something similar-ish based on an 80s Geoff Francis frame and forks, which was a touring frame and has a full set of rack/mudguard eyelets and canti mounts. Plan is a Campagnolo Olympus group and some wider 700c rims, then 38s.

It was meant to be cheap-ish but the frame needs a BB melting out and a respray, ain't that the way.

 

[A.D.R]

Well I got the frame a couple days ago no dings or dents, paints and decals are a little tired.



I'm toying with removing the canti hanger, think its missing the cable stop as the outer cable would just go straight through, plus it's almost agricultural in form justa piece of folded plate steel. There are replacement hangers that bolt to the seat pin bolt aren't there?. If I did remove it, its just a matter of filing the ends of it flush with the stays yeah?





I'm also wondering if its safe to lengthen the rear drop outs in a quest for slightly more tyre clearance and singlespeed adjustability by filing 3 or so mm out of them, but not past halfway through the raised section



Alas Kingoffootball I fear it wont be getting 20GS bits, to begin with I'll probably fit the Altus A20 parts form my Carrera Krakatoa to begin with, then it will be a matter of what I can get on a budget/scrounge/recycle.
As far as fitting 700C wheels 700x35s fit fine, I'll hopefully be test fitting 38s when I get new tyres for the wife's Pioneer.

Cheers

Andy

 

[was8v]

I wouldn't get too hung up on wheel size.

I'm only fractionally faster over my commute home on my modern 8kg 700c road bike than my 13kg do everything 1990 531 Orbit with 2" Schwalbe hurricanes at 70 PSI, full mudguards and rack. I run a compact cassette with non compact chainrings on that for a monster range of gears.

26" wheels with 2" tyres are pretty much the same diameter as 700c with narrow tyres anyway - see http://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math#sizes

Just make sure the wheels are lightweight and tyres aren't wire bead monsters, and you get a comfortable position - even if that means bar ends on risers (I prefer risers for offroad and comfort at touring pace but require bar ends for extra positions on road rides).

 

[was8v]

See also: http://velo-orange.blogspot.co.uk/2011/ ... -650b.html

Tyre size effective diameters are very similar:

And experience of the conversion you propose:

26“ to 650b conversion details: Most classic mountain bikes and some popular modern offerings such as the Surly LHT (26”) have adequate clearance for all of the smooth tread 650b tires. A 650b/38mm wheel actually suits the dimensions of the LHT better than a narrow 26”/32-38mm wheel, which leaves gaping clearances and unfamiliar handling. Conversion simply relies on a brake with 12.5 mm of vertical adjustability (half the 25mm difference between 559 and 584). We have already identified that Tektro CR720 brakes work at the top of their range, as did a prototype Grand Cru brake hanging out in our shop. Of course there are a few v-brake designs that have been around since the 90’s with loads of vertical adjustment as well.

 

[A.D.R]

In an ideal world I'd be going down the 650b conversion route, but at the moment my budget just doesn't allow for the price of a 650b wheelset and tyres. So it looks like I'll be sticking with 26" wheels atm (though I will be seeing just how much clearance there is for a 700x3, I should be able to source 2 sets of wheels so one will get knobbies and the other more road friendly tyres.

As for handlebars I get wrist pain after a couple of miles on flatbars, risers are a bit better but I think I'll be trying On-one Midge dirt drop bars. (My modern bikes is more than likely going to end up with On-one mary bars)

Andy