All rounder build advice

[A.D.R]

I've been thinking about putting together an all rounder type of bike for a while now. I'm thinking steel frame(preferably lugged ), 700C wheels, clearance for at least 38mm tyres, drop bars, bar end shifters and preferably a horizontal Top tube, but with the braze-ons usually missing on a cyclocross bike. I'm hesitant to say "Monstercross", All Terrain Bike may be more appropriate. Basically something that's as at home at on tarmac, gravel canal tow paths and smooth rolling singletrack.

The LGF's Bike about halfway down this topic is pretty much spot on what I'm thinking, undecided on the mudguards at the moment though
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=248286

I'm wondering about the bike/frame to base it on, so far i'm considering;
1. An old hybrid along the lines of a raleigh pioneer
2. An older touring bike,
3, An older road bike frame built for 27" wheels giving 700c wheels more clearance for larger tyres, though this would mean long reach centre pulls or dual pivot brakes, I'm not that concerned about mud clearance at the moment,
4, An MTB frame fitted with 700c wheels and V brake adaptors like the ones fitted to the v brakes in this thread
viewtopic.php?t=134773

Any ideas suggestions?

Andy

 

[rollodes]

Or an old cyclocross bike as it will have clearance for the tyres and the right geometry for off road.

 

[doctor-bond]

Allrounder bike transport is awesome.

My first couple were based on 700c tourer frames. But they were a bit too nice and flexy for my heavily laden supermarket runs and off road sorties.

Current build is a late 80s MBK 26" with loads of braze ons and a sweet triple butted frame. Early days, but could be all round Nivacrom nirvana.

How about getting an old UK mountain bike with 501 (cromo) or 531 tubes and all the brazons, then setting it up with 650 b wheels? I think some cantis, like Tektros and Pauls, have enough adjustment so it shouldn't be to tricky to pull off. Mudguards might be harder though.

That way you get a cheap solid frame you can do anything with, a bit of extra big-wheel momentum, and you'll be the envy of your conservatively-wheeled friends.

 

[NeilM]

Tyre clearance can be an issue with an mtb frame.

I have a Rourke mtb frame that I was going to franken-cx and use with 770c wheels. All went well until I fitted cx tyres and the extra height then caused to tyres to rub. My solution was to stick with 26" wheels, but as you're starting from scratch you can take that into account.

 

[mikee]

I'd be interested to see what you come up with

The wheel size will dictate the rest tho

Get on with it

Mike

Btw a nice old 501 Raleigh frame would be a good start

 

[mikee]

The other thing to remember is
An all rounder these days is usually a 29" 120mm travel disc braked hydroformed thing that can do 30 mph everywhere ,even if the owner only can do that down into the town park ,and it usually has generalised written on it

Sarky mike

 

[A.D.R]

Btw a nice old 501 Raleigh frame would be a good start

Been looking for just that, not much about locally (Arbroath), and any that are seem to be built for giants, plenty on ebay but not many willing to post. I'll keep looking meantime.

As far as wheel size goes I think I'll be sticking with 700c, theres just not a lot of 650b wheels/tyres in the UK yet, but I'm not ruling it out.

I've an old carrera MTB frame in the shed but at 17.5" I'm reluctantly admitting to myself its too small for extended periods of riding (I'm 5 11" with a 33" inside leg) or else I'd have used that, I test fitted a 700c wheel with a 35mm tyre and there was 8mm or so clearance so I reckon it could take upto a 37mm CX tyre, so an MTB frame is still an option providing it has similar clearance

To be honest after looking at the wifes Raleigh Pioneer, if I could find one of the 501 framed versions it would be a good starting point, hers is fitted with 622x37 tyres and there's oodles of room in the chainstays still.

I should say I've got a budget of around 250-300 at most so while exceedingly nice Paul Components are sadly just a pipe dream.

As far as 120mm hyrdroformed disk braked things go my Cycle 2 work obtained Voodoo Hoodoo (26er) is in the shed

Andy

 

[hamster]

It's easier to start with an early 90's steel MTB frame and run 26" wheels. You can then run any tyre from 2.1 knobbly to 1.2 slick. Frankly the gain in speed on wheel size is minimal on road (and plenty of TT bikes run 650B's).

 

[A.D.R]

Any one know how much clearance an old 501 raleigh like an early 90s yukon would have running 622x35 cx tyres? I've noticed these don't seem to be commanding too high a price (is there a reason for this?).

I know its built for 26" wheels but I've kinda got myself set on 700c wheels.

Anyone selling such a frame/forks/complete bike

Andy

 

[kaiser]

On One Pompino maybe?