Advice Needed: Derailleur Hanger Replacement

[novocaine]

The original bike was a collaboration with a Formula 1 carbon fiber components manufacturer in the UK who had some cycling enthusiasts in their team. Unlike most carbon frames the tubes were cut, mitred and assembled to produce a very light frame (<700g unpainted) with limited “filler”. It may be a standard hanger - but its malleability (I could easily bend it with my fingers) and the fact I can’t find a match makes me think it might be a custom piece. Will do some calling today and cross my fingers.

yer, F1, where money stops being an object and they can always just fire some staff.
it's a piss poor design choice in today's world.

Some of our aerospace customers claim success with 3d printing.
That ought to be cheaper than machining, although I don't see how it would be strong enough myself.

it's not 3d printing like me and you think of it. we are talking Sintered laser melting (SLM) or Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) type rather than FDM or similar. fine powders cooked in an inert atmosphere. really cool, crazy strong, bleeding edge.

do you have a set of calipers you could measure it with out of interest? be fun to see how much it would cost to make (I'm a geek).

 

[bikeworkshop]

it's not 3d printing like me and you think of it. we are talking Sintered laser melting (SLM) or Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) type rather than FDM or similar. fine powders cooked in an inert atmosphere. really cool, crazy strong, bleeding edge.

Thanks, now I get it - I thought 3d printing makes you a soft plastic darth vader valve cap, or the sort of thing you get in a kinder egg , not on a high performance bicycle.
Your SLM description matches how they describe it.

I don't imagine the kit is cheap, but if you've got one at work, your limited production small brand carbon piece can stay out of the incinerator another year or two

 

[novocaine]

Thanks, now I get it - I thought 3d printing makes you a soft plastic darth vader valve cap, or the sort of thing you get in a kinder egg , not on a high performance bicycle.
Your SLM description matches how they describe it.

I don't imagine the kit is cheap, but if you've got one at work, your limited production small brand carbon piece can stay out of the incinerator another year or two

I wouldn't bother going near a printer with it, it's not worth the run time for me, if there was space on the plate it could be chucked in with another run though, which is how places are making money from it. CNC mill on the other hand could do this without to much issue, it's all one sided with a bit of hand work afterwards to countersink to holes, for a one off, still not worth it, take longer to sort the work holding than to run it. a one off part of aluminium like this, i'd do it by hand. as it happens there's a nice chunk of 6061 sat on the bench right now, but I don't think I've got an M10x1.0 tap, I'll go look.

 

[7Speed]

Some of our aerospace customers claim success with 3d printing.
That ought to be cheaper than machining, although I don't see how it would be strong enough myself.

Will try the hanger specialists first and then move on to the local frame builders and engineers…everyone has been super helpful … thank you!

 

[7Speed]

Simon at RearMechHangers was super helpful. Searched his suppliers but couldn’t find a match. He gave me another lead…

 

[27motorhead]

There are other sites such as:
https://derailleurhangerstore.co.uk/collections/all-hangers
I'm not sure how handy you are, but you should be able to get one with a similar profile and modify it to fit with:

Metalwork file
centre punch
Drill (mains or cordless)
HSS drill bit for drilling the screw holes
HSS CSK bit

1. You can file the 'step' so it's in the right place/matches your drop-out shape - doesn't have to be perfect by any means.
2. You can hold the the hanger in place (or can use double sided) and then fit the screws from the reverse side so when you tighten them slightly they mark the location on the back of the hanger (or you can spot through with a pencil/thin object). Before you do this, you can use a Sharpie or other permanent pen to help show the marks. Unless you have engineers blue!
3. Drill and counter sink (using centre punch to mark the spot) the holes. Just CSK on the correct side!!!
4. Use Loctite threadlock to hold in the allen screws in place. Don't overtighten as frame becomes damaged then
These hangers are never beautifully made and with paint build-up on frames, they can sometimes never sit square/plumb so an alignment tool is essential for checking it's vertical and horizontal alignment so there is no twist once fitted.

Good luck whatever avenue to go down!

 

[7Speed]

Thanks @27motorhead - just got knocked back by Andy at GearHangers. I don’t trust my own skills TBH.

 

[7Speed]

yer, F1, where money stops being an object and they can always just fire some staff.
it's a piss poor design choice in today's world.


it's not 3d printing like me and you think of it. we are talking Sintered laser melting (SLM) or Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) type rather than FDM or similar. fine powders cooked in an inert atmosphere. really cool, crazy strong, bleeding edge.

do you have a set of calipers you could measure it with out of interest? be fun to see how much it would cost to make (I'm a geek).

Hi Novo - yes I do. Frankly I need rescuing as Reilly seem to be AWOL on this one. I will take some measurements over the weekend and understand this is purely for nerd vs true rescue purposes; but I live in hope. The bike is the best I have ever had - I hate the idea of losing it to a mech hanger issue. 7

 

[The Bat]

Where do you live @7Speed ?

 

[novocaine]

Hi Novo - yes I do. Frankly I need rescuing as Reilly seem to be AWOL on this one. I will take some measurements over the weekend and understand this is purely for nerd vs true rescue purposes; but I live in hope. The bike is the best I have ever had - I hate the idea of losing it to a mech hanger issue. 7

Send measurements, first thing I'll do is CAD it up and send you a plastic one to check for fitment. If that works you can then decide if you want to send it to an online fab shop or, depending on time and cost for me to fab one up.