'96ish Custom Bontrager CX

Yeah, I like the MXP's a lot. Just a shame they were still a fraction too tight in the rear.

Nice to have a spare ready to go for the front tho!

And I'll definitely look to using them again in the future, on other cross projects.

Here's hoping there are other cross projects!
 
With a real plan in mind I started figuring out more details.

One of my first discoveries was that there was definitely no room for anything wider than a 33-sized tire in the rear. Which is as trad as it gets for a cross bike! Although finding a tan-wall in that size wasn't at all easy, eventually I stumbled across a couple of different options, including these Donnelly's, a brand unfamiliar to me but recommended by a man with EXCEPTIONAL CROSS BIKE TASTE:

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That 33 was actually still a fraction too tight, so while I kept it on the front, at at bike swap in San Diego I found a stray NOS IRD Crossfire in a size 32, and in keeping with the mix n' match vibes of the bike in my head so far, I figured I'd ignore the spasms of OCD trying to force their way into the forefront of my mind, and give myself a little extra wiggle room in the dirt!

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This tire is actually a perfect design, so if anyone has, or sees any out there on their adventures, please do give me a holler!

I'd like another (or some others.)
First picture, "What are those, can I eat them, can I attack them, can I sleep on them?"...
 
An idiosyncratic beaut!

A Bonty CX is the one frame I'd re-open the retrofund for...

Ha! NoT was just about to msg. you that more fascinating bontrager / building / business info had been dropped onto the thread…

Thanks for posting and presenting online here.

Am concluded that am content with my Santa Cruz era racelite - but may attempt a 700c rebuild , maybe resurrecting my earlier mid 90s OR for mtb.

Looking forwards to next instalment if there is one…
 
Right then, the first of the big decisions, and the first of the major problems...

Drivetrain.

Based on the supposed period of the bike, my initial instinct was to build it as a racey lil' 2x9, using a mix of XTR M953 and Dura-Ace 7700.

But first, I figured I'd throw what I had on it, to get a sense of what would work and what wouldn't.

The fact that it was slightly on the smaller side for me to run as a regular cross bike meant I wanted to build and ride it more like a skinny tire MTB anyway, so on went a mountain triple, and XT front mech, just to see...

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Hmmm. Well that's a funny place to put the bottle cage mount isn't it!?

As you can see, running a mountain setup would be impossible, as placing the front derailleur below the braze-on meant the cage would be much too low, and above, much too high. To get it placed exactly right it would need to go exactly where the cage bolt goes.

So, logically, I figured this must have meant that the bike was originally built for a road double. That big ol' road ring would mean the derailleur could go above the braze-on, and the distance would most likely be spot-on. Or so I thought.

Now, I'm not the kind of guy that likes to measure twice and buy once, so I made my assumptions and hit both eBay and my contact list to hopefully secure what I thought I needed.

I was pleased in a way, because it meant my plan could remain largely the same: Still a mix of M953 and 7700, just a little more Dura-Ace heavy now!

So a crankset, and NOS FD were both secured:

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(I lovely bit of kit and great design, I think we can all agree!)

I can't find the photo I'm sure I took to prove it, but when everything arrived and was bolted on the same problem arose: not enough room to work around the braze-on. Damn it!

Which is when my second bright spark ignited: Problem Solvers make those little doohickey's that let you run braze-on front detailers in the clamp-on style. And the thing with braze-on deraileurs is, they allow for vertical adjustment. This would surely be the solution, as I could place the clamp where it needed to go, and then bring the FD down to exactly the right spot. So a braze-on version of the same front mech was secured on the cheap, and wouldn't you know it...

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Problem. Solved!

At which point, my naive self left things as they were and went about figuring out solutions to ridable gear ratios, as I didn't fancy running this in full road mode, even though I had the matching 9-speed cassette already in my possession.

(If you've already got 3/4's of a mini-group, you may as well complete the set, right?)

So this:

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Became this:

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A modern wider-range 9-speed Shimano cassette, providing my rear mech of choice could handle it. Nothing fancy, but a nice 11-34 spread would in theory result in something suitable for the type of stuff I envisioned riding.

(Ignore the temporary and too-long Ringle skewer, please!)

This decision was made in large part due to serendipitously reading about a similar set-up on Mike Varley's unbelievable #E5 GH Cunningham road bike HERE. An incredibly sad story in regards to how he came to own the bike, but uplifting in a way nonetheless.

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Anyway, at this point everything looked good, so I (foolishly) decided to move onto to the cockpit before I chained and cabled everything up to test my theories and workarounds out.
 
Right then, let's speed this along a bit...

Cockpit:

Obviously THAT stem is staying, and my plan was to run a flat bar. That said, seeing as how a few contemporary bits would be going on this, I figured it would be a nice time to try something more modern. As mentioned elsewhere, a beloved local bike shop here recently closed, and for the last couple of weeks everything was 30- and 40-percent off. There was a stray Nitto-made Simworks Getaround bar still floating around during that period, and I figured would be a nice addition to this bike. It's got a good amount of backsweep, at 12-degrees, a long flat middle section, and is wide without being too wide, at 700mm.

It was also $50!

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Beer can shim!

Actually, an NA beer can shim!

Don't judge me, I actually really like them and it's a good pacing beer every three or so cans. ;)

A couple of other Nitto bits would make it onto the final build, so seemed nice to have a bar made by them, too.

For headset, I raided the Chris King stash for an old No Logo 2Nut, which is where the problems began...

The steerer on the fork had been cut surprisingly short, so short there was no room for the 2Nut, never mind any spacers and cable hangers! So two solutions were needed; an alternative way of running the cantilever cable, and shorter stack headset.

Luckily a friend pointed out that perhaps someone had previous installed a CK Gripnit headset. For those that don't know, these require the steerer thread to be cut at exactly the right height, so he leant me a random Gripnut top to try out before I placed on order with Chris King for a matching silver one:

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So that looked like problem solved.

An order was placed for the silver one, along with the nice little Nitto cable hanger shown earlier, which, rather than attach to the steerer, attaches to the stem post. This is actually really useful for this bike, as not only does the Gripnut not allow for one to go on the steerer, the paint on the stem only goes down so far on the post and the hanger would cover most of what was missing. This would help to give me the little extra height I needed to get the bars closer to where I would like them.

Side note: in theory you can run any Chris King as either a threaded or threadless headset. All you need to do is order the relevant $50 kit to switch over the top part:

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Spotters badge to anyone who can tell me what rookie error I've made that I won't figure out until everything else is bolted on, cabled up and ready to ride?

For levers and shifters, I had some good scores at the San Diego Velodrome swap last year:

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As you can see, that's where the stray Crossfire tire came from, as well as King bottle cages, the DA cassette with matching rear derailleur (just to have) and a set of modern Paul levers:

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The rest will all be for future projects!

Levers would be paired with more Paul Touring Cantilevers:

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I really love this brake, as you can tell by how it now shows up on all my bikes! A doddle to set-up, brilliant modulation (especially paired with the Hunter Nugz), excellent braking and aesthetically pleasing when paired with an old bike.

Cheap, too! ;)

The brakes and levers would be joined by some Paul thumbie mounts, secured on eBay, that I paired with the matching DA-7700 barcon shifters. But for some reason I don't have any photos of any of that going on, so you'll just have to imagine it until the final reveal!

Oh and I replaced the chewed-up original roller with a brand new one, courtesy of a trip to the hardware store:

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A high tech bargain!

Apparently this is exactly what Keith specced on his bike's back on the day. Which sounds pretty Bontrager to me!
 
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Very nice. Quite a bit of luxury on there but not over the top bling. Very snazzy

Though I think you should get rid of Paul and put on some actually functioning v brakes 🥰

Sorry, I am allergic to cantilever brakes and Paul's Components :)
 
Cheers mate!

Yeah, there's some nice kit on this, for sure. Hopefully keeping it all relatively low-key in black and silver mutes that just a little bit.

It is, however, without a doubt, my fanciest bike. I can't pretend otherwise.

The amazing paint job just looks wrong against all my usual banged-up tat, is the truth of it! This one required some nicer condition/newer gear than I might usually go for.

As for Paul...

Yeah, but your bias is getting in the way of the truth again here mate!

Much like Chris King, Paul stuff just works superbly.

And I'd rather pay more money to support an independent and thoroughly likable small business owner and master of his craft, then chuck another buck in any mass-produced bike component company's pocket.

Also, it's a cross bike. Cross bikes, by race rules, have to be cantilevered. Or they used to have to be!

Besides, it's a bike crime to ever have a cantilever cable stop and not use it.

With V's I wouldn't need that Nitto hanger either, which then wouldn't be covering up that missing paint!

And then there's the simple fact that I have always, and most likely will always, dislike v-brakes. Not as much as disc brakes, I grant you.

But this guy is pretty much cantilever 'til he dies!

Which, with cantilevers, might not take too long.

(Figured I'd beat you to the punch[line] with that one!)
 
@Imlach cantilevers are better than coasters anyhow. Be silent, I envy those Paul's, would love a set for my Nishiki. @pw_pw_la I was admiring the adjustability on the straddle, that's a helpful little feature

It really, really is. So smart you wonder why they don't appear more often on other bikes. I'm sure other companies make them (not that I've seen any) but although Hunter's are pricey, I love all things Rick so I don't mind splashing out on them.

Anyway, it's not likely I'll ever have much chance of finding an old Hunter, or having Rick build me a new one anyway, so I may as well stock up on these! (They were also 40% off at the LBS, so I snagged all they had left! It's not like anyone else but me buys them there anyway...)

But, yeah, the Nugz do a highly effective, incredibly simple job of allowing you to make micro-adjustments to the straddle tension, and thus pad placement. Perfect not only for the initial setup, but also over time as the pads wear.
 
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A high tech bargain!

Apparently this is exactly what Keith specced on his bike's back on the day. Which sounds pretty Bontrager to me!

Loving this Bontrager fun fact! … non of my bonty’s feature rollers - however I have some FAT Chance frames that feature rollers - so will be on the look out when rebuilding.

Really like the choice of top-notch contempory indy parts + with a nice retrospective (not retrograde!) pick of old school parts in the mix. Looking forwards to reading more in due course... have been re visiting Pauls Components who make ton’s more parts than I remember - a motolie (possibly in purple) - would be a useful addition to my own bonty. Thanks for heads-up on Paul’s 😎
 

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