sick-lizard
Retro Guru
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Dexter would be proud of that setup
'96 RTS-3 Rehab
- Thread starter SteveCar
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SteveCar
Dirt Disciple
I'm not sure who Dexter is but I'm kinda proud of it. Rattle cans, looks good at 10 ft+ lmaoDexter would be proud of that setup
SteveCar
Dirt Disciple
Thank you. Assembly starts in a cpl days. let it really cure
shepp
Retro Guru
Great idea for a booth. Looking a bit murder scene, but going to try this to seal off my car section.
SteveCar
Dirt Disciple
Thank you. The posts are adjustable to 10 feet. They are a contractors "Zip Wall" but not the real expensive ones. I paid 80. Too much, but I wasn't going to wait until spring to do the bike.
They also have zippers, for an entrance, that stick on the plastic wall.
SteveCar
Dirt Disciple
I finally got my Noleen shock back, 5 weeks later, sigh. When trying to use the puncture gauge the seal pushed right in the cavity, there was pressure in there too. So I sent it out for rebuild.
In the first picture before the N seal failed and I dismantled the shock, the thread measurement is 9/16" ,~14mm.
In the second picture...the one with the great technical drawing, it came back at 1/2" ..~13mm.
My question is this: unscrew the keeper so a softer spring but more piston travel? I mean that is a tiny space inside there so there isn't much oil or N. You have to remember, this is a street bike now. I'm 65 and not out bombing the trails. The biggest bump is going to be off of a curb, because I can lol.
If I screw the keeper in, more threads showing, then the spring gets tighter and less piston travel, right? So is that a firmer ride?
I just need some general idea, not a whole tech explanation. Since the oil leaked out long ago I have no real experience on a fully functional shock.
Final assembled pics coming in about a week.
In the first picture before the N seal failed and I dismantled the shock, the thread measurement is 9/16" ,~14mm.
In the second picture...the one with the great technical drawing, it came back at 1/2" ..~13mm.
My question is this: unscrew the keeper so a softer spring but more piston travel? I mean that is a tiny space inside there so there isn't much oil or N. You have to remember, this is a street bike now. I'm 65 and not out bombing the trails. The biggest bump is going to be off of a curb, because I can lol.
If I screw the keeper in, more threads showing, then the spring gets tighter and less piston travel, right? So is that a firmer ride?
I just need some general idea, not a whole tech explanation. Since the oil leaked out long ago I have no real experience on a fully functional shock.
Final assembled pics coming in about a week.
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SteveCar
Dirt Disciple
Edit:
The upper mount and bolt are tight in dimensions but the lower mount has room to put a bushing in the shuck. Both bolts are being replaced with full shoulder ones then cut to correct length.. I don't remember any sleeve/bushing on the lower part of the shock and all of the reassembly bags and containers are empty. Is a bushing a good idea? Seems like it would slop around with out it when I'm taking those high curbs ! lol
The upper mount and bolt are tight in dimensions but the lower mount has room to put a bushing in the shuck. Both bolts are being replaced with full shoulder ones then cut to correct length.. I don't remember any sleeve/bushing on the lower part of the shock and all of the reassembly bags and containers are empty. Is a bushing a good idea? Seems like it would slop around with out it when I'm taking those high curbs ! lol
I don't think the spring position impacts the travel, it's for pre-loading the spring. I'm no suspension expert but I think the preloading impacts the compression rate.
On my RTS bikes, the rear shock has an adjustable shaft which can be used to tune the travel a tiny bit, and also the start position of the rear end in relation to the BB pivot.
I remember fettling this along with the spring preload to reduce the bob when riding (iirc suspension design was to lock the rear end when pedaling) and the sag as when sat on the bike, the suspension compresses, so tuning that to suit.
On my RTS bikes, the rear shock has an adjustable shaft which can be used to tune the travel a tiny bit, and also the start position of the rear end in relation to the BB pivot.
I remember fettling this along with the spring preload to reduce the bob when riding (iirc suspension design was to lock the rear end when pedaling) and the sag as when sat on the bike, the suspension compresses, so tuning that to suit.
SteveCar
Dirt Disciple
Mine does not have any adjustment, as shown in the picture. except the spring adjustment. I would think Noleen pre loaded the spring in a neutral position for soft/stiffness. It'll be a week or two before it is on the road so I guess I'll just see what it feels like. I could also call Noleen and get t heir opinion.
EDIT: I just watched a YT vid and I understand a little more. If the spring rattles between the mounts it's too loose...duh, but you really only tighten it up so there is no movement, It doesn't correlate to a stiff or soft ride. Another 1/4 turn after the rattle stops and it is where it should be. Longer springs might change something but this is what I have. Imma leave it alone.
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