8Freight Cargo bike - restoration / project

[Mikefrancis]

Thanks very much both for replying, much appreciated

My rear axel is slightly different it’s almost a square taper type fit, not the hexagon type
and its got a shoulder next to the bearing so it’s got to come out on the wheel side . ( if that makes sense )

( I’ve seen the mike burrow’s versions get taken out either side )

I’ve tried drawing it off with a puller and old sprocket anchored against the casette lock ring, but it just bends the sprocket lol !
I’ll upload some photos tommorrow

Mike

 

[Mikefrancis]

Hi

Managed to get some photos, ( hex bolt and washer removed from free hub )

I used an another hex bolt on it own threaded in the free hub/ axel and tried to drift the assembly out but the bolt started to bend so I stopped before doing any major damage

Mike

 

[Mikefrancis]

Forgot this one

 

[Jonny69]

Can’t quite tell but it looks like it might have the hollow 12-sided Allen bolt thing holding it on that normal older Shimano freehubs had. Stick a 10mm or 12mm Allen key down the middle of the freehub and see if it locks into anything. It’ll be quite tight but that might release everything.

 

[mynchiboy]

Can’t quite tell but it looks like it might have the hollow 12-sided Allen bolt thing holding it on (same as normal older Shimano freehubs had). Stick a 10mm or 12mm Allen key down the middle of the freehub and see if it locks into anything. It’ll be quite tight but that might release everything.

Probably unlikely to be honest.

The freehubs on these are/were modded slightly in that the threaded insert with the allen key fitment is removed, so the freehub body slides straight onto the axle.

The freehub body is then normally held in place with a small toothed collar, which is an interference fit on the axle. The wheel hex bolt and a small alloy washer then holds everything in place on the outer side of the body.

I think drifting might still be the way to go, but Ideally you need a section of metal bar that is the same diameter. I was lucky in that I had an old broken axle that I kept for that very purpose. Certainly using a bolt as a drift could be problematic, as you could end up with a broken bolt stuck in the axle, or worse still, damaged axle threads.

Good luck with the removal

 

[Joe_Rides]

Certainly completely different to mine. As far as I know on mine, the axle is pressed into the wheel hub, and not designed to come away. So taking the wheel off = removing the axle! (by drifting the axle from the drive side). I have a tapered drift which worked, but the right size long socket could help.

 

[mynchiboy]

Certainly completely different to mine. As far as I know on mine, the axle is pressed into the wheel hub, and not designed to come away. So taking the wheel off = removing the axle! (by drifting the axle from the drive side). I have a tapered drift which worked, but the right size long socket could help.

The axles should definitely come out but I know it doesn't look that way at a glance. Everything is pretty much press fitted, as MB generally kept securing collars to a minimum. Even the hub bearings only got a smudge of Loctite at the very most! Tapping out gently but firmly is normally the only option.

My broken axle tool thing had a complete taper on one side still, so I could use that to pop out the rear wheel axles with little bother, or damage to the hub.

 

[Joe_Rides]

One thing I need to do on mine: when I replaced the bearings, didn't use loctite. So every time I take the wheel off, the bearings just fall out.

Before "final" assembly (once I've done the brakes etc) I'll clean the races back up and dry them, then loctite them in!

 

[Mikefrancis]

Can’t quite tell but it looks like it might have the hollow 12-sided Allen bolt thing holding it on that normal older Shimano freehubs had. Stick a 10mm or 12mm Allen key down the middle of the freehub and see if it locks into anything. It’ll be quite tight but that might release everything.

Hi

Thanks for your reply , that was exactly what I originally thought as well
An 11mm hex key fits the gap but, It wouldn't budge, looking close up (which the photos don’t show very well)
It looks like an interference fit as mynchiboy says.

I appreciate your input
Thanks again

 

[Mikefrancis]

Thanks for all replies, much appreciated indeed

I think I can try to draw the wheel side axel out and / or get a hydraulic press on the free hub side,

I’m going to try at the week end fingers crossed LOL

Mike