Yes...lots...I restore classic bikes for a retirement pt job now!
84 Saracen ATB Citybike
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One leftfield modification I have used for long rides when my back is playing up, is to reverse the stem. This can reduce the lean angle of the rider and so improve rider posture. Doing this doesn't have the negative effect on handling you might expect and if you find the aesthetics challenging, you can put it the stem back to normal for everyday use. I must admit that I have only done this with short BMX stems.
The theory is that bicycles riding posture can reverse the normal concave shape (lumbar lordosis) of the lower spine that humans have when standing. The more the back becomes arched when cycling the more the disks between the vertebrae are pushed outwards, putting pressure on the spinal cord and potentially leading onto inflammation and pain.
I have found that riding with a back friendly posture and a soft sprung saddle can actually help to reduce everyday back pain. I can even start riding with back pain and it is completely gone by the end of the ride. Because back pain has a wide number of causes, this won't work for everybody.
The theory is that bicycles riding posture can reverse the normal concave shape (lumbar lordosis) of the lower spine that humans have when standing. The more the back becomes arched when cycling the more the disks between the vertebrae are pushed outwards, putting pressure on the spinal cord and potentially leading onto inflammation and pain.
I have found that riding with a back friendly posture and a soft sprung saddle can actually help to reduce everyday back pain. I can even start riding with back pain and it is completely gone by the end of the ride. Because back pain has a wide number of causes, this won't work for everybody.
Aesthetics should always come second to comfort IMHO. I also think there is a deeper beauty in bicycles set up to the riders needs. Adherence to a certain look of a certain time is all well and good, but for a rider, which I intend to put miles on and enjoy, I couldn't care less. I've done some rather ugly setups which over time have grown on me because suddenly it feels more like my bicycle.
Totally agree with everything you wrote btw.
My current comfortable do it all is my CC which I've run with my big stiffy stem and North roads at first, now flat bars as I wanted to weight the front a bit more. What I love about bars/stems/saddles is that they're some of the simplest things to replace and offers the most adjustment to make almost any bike fit. I don't have a bike size that feels more ideal than another, because I've just been able to make them work and they're the ones I put the most miles on. The ones where I've tried to stick to traditions, well, I'll ride them for a short journey and then that's it.
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Sounds like you'd be more suited to a Cleland Range Rider or High path
www.retrobike.co.uk
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Cleland Range Rider (RR-001 English Cycles) Highpath. 1982
Hello all, Haven't posted for a long time so here goes..... I remember reading about Cleland & Highpath bikes long ago when I first got into MTBs (or ATBs as I & friends preferred to call them then!), & always thought how I'd like one, years passed & other interests took priority but...
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Evolution
40 plus years of Cleland design by Geoff Apps Tracker Bike (1968) Specification Raleigh steel ‘Explorer’ frame for 24″ wheels with steel forks for 27″ wheels Sturmey Archer …
clelandcycles.wordpress.com
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Geoff Apps, short reach with hardly any of the rider's weight on the handlebars can be replicated by using handlebars that move the hand position closer to the saddle even if this results them being behind the steering axis. Also, by using a smallish, (short reach) frame fitted with a long seat-post and tall short-reach stem. It is the short reach that is most important and the handlebars don't need to be much higher than the saddle.
There are other ways to achieve good back posture, including using a stretched out forward riding position and a tall stem and bullhorn track-bars. This puts more weight on the arms than using straight bars, but because less of the upper-body's weight is being supported by the spine, feels much more comfortable. This also moves more of the rider's weight over the front wheel and so works best on bikes with front suspension
There are other ways to achieve good back posture, including using a stretched out forward riding position and a tall stem and bullhorn track-bars. This puts more weight on the arms than using straight bars, but because less of the upper-body's weight is being supported by the spine, feels much more comfortable. This also moves more of the rider's weight over the front wheel and so works best on bikes with front suspension
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Ive got it pretty dialled in on the other two frames, hence sending off the bits to be welded up, now i know a length and angle for the stems for them. Custom stem building isn't cheap, but its far far cheaper than a custom frame! Which is the other option.
That range rider looks almost like the pedals hit the front wheel let alone my enormous feet! But I get the idea....sadly that's not really my back problem....or solution.
Very interesting bikes all the same. Thanks Graham. Got to love his inventive work on off roading too.
That range rider looks almost like the pedals hit the front wheel let alone my enormous feet! But I get the idea....sadly that's not really my back problem....or solution.
Very interesting bikes all the same. Thanks Graham. Got to love his inventive work on off roading too.
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The Range-Rider in the link posted earlier has been fitted with 700c wheels when it was designed for 650b, resulting in an increased chance of wheel/toe overlap.
I'm 6ft 2" with size 11 feet and have never had any issues with my toes hitting the front wheel or mudguard on a Cleland or Highpath fitted with the correct size of wheel, even when they are fitted with 185mm cranks. However, due to their short chain-stays, I do find that heel and pannier rubbing can be a source of friction.
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