8 Freight restoration and advice needed please.

[Steelfan13]

I mentioned this on a previous thread but was advised to start my own.
I've acquired three 8 freights from a charity I work for.
They all need some work and I've replaced the rear hub bearings on one of them and a few other little jobs.
The stands on all of them are missing parts so if anyone has an idea what's needed I would be greatly appreciated.
The lever on the handle bar for the stand is missing plus what attaches to the stand and frame.

 

[Steelfan13]

After looking at the older thread I think it's just missing a gas strut and gets kicked down.
It looks like it bolts to the frame and a little lever on the stand marked in red.
Any Ideas?

 

[Joe_Rides]

Yeah, mine had a gas strut. And the lever was just a cheapo thumb shifter on the handlebars, running friction. So both easy fixes

 

[Steelfan13]

Yeah, mine had a gas strut. And the lever was just a cheapo thumb shifter on the handlebars, running friction. So both easy fixes

Yes I had a look at your thread.
The gas strut on mine seems to mount to the side of the main frame and a little lever on the stand.
There doesn't seem to be any indication there was anything mounted underneath that was operated by a lever on the bars.
Does your stand sit completely vertical when down or slightly forward because I'm trying to work out what length strut to get?
280mm would mean it's vertical but wondering if it needs to be a bit longer say 290 or 300mm to allow the stand to sit further forward when down so it doesn't fold back on its own.

 

[Joe_Rides]

I don't own mine anymore sadly, but original don't think the stand was true vertical no. Slightly forward sounds right.

There are a couple of guys on here wayyy more knowledgeable on these, calling @mynchiboy @LunarBike

 

[mynchiboy]

Sorry for being late to the party!

Everything mentioned by @Joe_Rides is spot on. The kickstands are slightly forward facing when fully down, likely for stability and also to make it possible to return the stand to its upright position by pushing the bike forward.

As well as the length, you also need to check the spring resistance of the strut you choose is correct. As I discovered it is possible to burst one of these! My own 8F is currently stored away from home, but I can check what is fitted if it helps.

There should also be a nylon block housing a section of tubing that in turn connects to the bar mount shifter cable and activates the stand. It normally screws directly onto the underside of the wooden decking. Is that present and complete on yours? I haven't any pictures of it (mine has long gone) but I know @LunarBike will have this at hand, if he's about on here still.

As I mentioned in other threads, Mike did experiment with a few different kick stand setups over the years of production. You may want to play around with some other methods of activating the stand, if there are any other parts that seem to be missing. I am sure he would approve!

Good luck with the rebuilds

 

[Steelfan13]

Thanks for the reply

Sorry for being late to the party!

Everything mentioned by @Joe_Rides is spot on. The kickstands are slightly forward facing when fully down, likely for stability and also to make it possible to return the stand to its upright position by pushing the bike forward.

As well as the length, you also need to check the spring resistance of the strut you choose is correct. As I discovered it is possible to burst one of these! My own 8F is currently stored away from home, but I can check what is fitted if it helps.

There should also be a nylon block housing a section of tubing that in turn connects to the bar mount shifter cable and activates the stand. It normally screws directly onto the underside of the wooden decking. Is that present and complete on yours? I haven't any pictures of it (mine has long gone) but I know @LunarBike will have this at hand, if he's about on here still.

As I mentioned in other threads, Mike did experiment with a few different kick stand setups over the years of production. You may want to play around with some other methods of activating the stand, if there are any other parts that seem to be missing. I am sure he would approve!

Good luck with the rebuilds

Thanks for the reply.
No there doesn't seem to be any indication of a nylon block being fitted at any time, but I might try and fit one which seems fairly straightforward.
The strut seems to attach to the side of the main frame with an M5 bolt through the eyelet and then the lever on the stand which is not threaded. I wonder if this end of the strut should be a clevis pin or just an M5 bolt with a couple of washers and a locknut.
280mm would make the stand vertical when down. I think I probably need 290, but when I tested it earlier with the stand forward as if it had a 290 fitted, it felt too far forward because the bike felt a bit unstable, but this could also be because the rubber feet on the ends of the stand are missing which makes legs of the stand a bit shorter.
If you do get the chance to check the force rating that would be very helpful.
My plan is to do all three up and sell two I think.
Generally they seem in pretty good condition and have been dry stored for a number of years, but I'll still strip the hubs and change the bearings.

 

[mynchiboy]

@Steelfan13 No problem! It is just a M5 bolt for the strut fitment. It’s probably worth using either the clevis option or a bit of loctite though, as I’ve had them loosen on me over time.

I’ve also found that rubber feet for mic stands of all things do quite a good job on the kickstand. Whatever you use it’s worth keeping spares, as again they tend to wear out pretty fast/ drop off. I’m guessing your kickstands are just hollow tubing, mine has had end caps welded in at some point.

It’s worth keeping at least one just for the attention it gets? I’m looking forward to seeing pictures of them if you have a moment