70's "Glued & Screwed" - What next?

BretonDave

Old School Hero
Hi all,

Having recently purchased what I thought was an ALAN! Turns out its a CMT from Lyon, France.
I now need to decide what to do with it!


The anodisation looks ok on the face of it - but its faded & covered in scratches etc.

Would love to paint it like this one:

If I flatted the anodised finish with 4 - 600 grade wet and dry would I be able to undercoat and paint in the normal way?

I will paint the chrome forks too as they're well pitted.
 

Attachments

  • P1014833.JPG
    P1014833.JPG
    73.5 KB · Views: 892
  • 8065460_orig.jpg
    8065460_orig.jpg
    60.9 KB · Views: 892
Re:

If scratched you will end up removing the anodized surface anyway so as hampster says have a look at aluminium painting, for example old Land Rover restoring sites they have a lot of info on prepping aluminium for painting.
 
Re:

Thanks for input - I'm going to give it a go - I assume that all anodisation will need to be removed prior to the etching primer?

Also, will this type of primer "fill" the many scratches / imperfections?

Cheers, D.
 
Re:

Iwork with 2k paints{ones which have a catalyst}etch primers loves sticking to alloy,coloured anodizing is usually v v thin compared to the grey on an older rim so would come off with 500 -240 wet\dry paper,mask off lugs so you don't scratch lugs,carbody shops {pro level}should sell U-POL aerosol etchprimer but then even if you do a cellulose rattle can job after the job wonnt last forever personally I would get a carbody shop to spray both primer and colour of your choice in 2k and do the relevant masking it will not only look gr8 but last for ever,ive known folk key up the whole frame and clear laquer over relevant colour panels and alloy lugs but even with keying up and 2' paint it will eventually come off the alloy {no primer obv}but would last year more than cellulose rattle can job
 
As a long term owner of old and new Land Rovers - acid etch primer and then paint as normal on top. Available in Halfords last time I needed some.

As an occasional painter of bike frames - I'm not bothering again. For me, now that I've 'been there done that', the relatively small cost of paying someone else is the way to go. Rattle cans are expensive (it cost me £100 materials to get a candy apple finish) with loads of messy overspray (unavoidable spraying narrow tubes - even with a set of smaller spray nozzles from an art supplier) and you end up with soft paint that is easily chipped (a pro can use two pack or powder coat). And if you haven't done it before you may struggle to get a good finish (I'm happy with mine but I've seen some horrible examples that I'd be ashamed to ride).

And I love that orange. Go for it. Nice solid colour with a clear coat over the stickers. Despite what I've said, I could be tempted to do that (though orange overspray would find its way all round the house from my indoor workshop).
 
Re:

Rattle cans are expensive (it cost me £100 materials to get a candy apple finish) with loads of messy overspray (unavoidable spraying narrow tubes - even with a set of smaller spray nozzles from an art supplier)

That's why I use a brush, and some sort of enamel paint, although I rattle-canned a few frames in my youth..

..though to be fair, either way (brush or spray), half the paint you 'apply' ends up in the environment rather than attached to your bike frame.
 
Hi all,

Thanks for your thoughts / ideas - I'm going down the diy route - etch primer / rattle can - its not going to be a concours machine neither is it being chained to lamp posts! Hopefully it will come out well - will post photos when done.

Cheers, Dave
 
Back
Top