3d printed bits

themountie

Senior Retro Guru
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Hi guys picked up a 3d printer. Longbone has shown interest in May be doing some retrobike ahead top caps,

I thought could as well do spacers or bar end plugs and barb plugs

Open to any ideas guys
 
Which printer ? and what materials are you printing in (or plastic types).

I currently only play with PLA as that's the plastic I bought and its biodegradable (not my compost but the councils industrial compost should be fine)
I've made chainring spacers, the STI shifter caps for the cable holes (plugs and screw in type)
I use lightweight screws for my bottle cage holes (to bung them up ,not to mount a bottle cage with)
You can make all sort of cages, banana holders but I havn't bothered.

BB and headset spacers are easy enough,

You could design an make other STI covers, I think somebody already deigned an STX one.

TopCaps, they're a bit more difficult, as PLA would usually split apart and you'd need to look at other plastics that may bond the layers better. Unless you use it to design a mould and then use resin (or a resin printer?)
Someone may know better than me there.
(still just a 3D printer faffer, in fact just repaired it yesterday and then help with a bug in octopi/octoprint)
 
Presumably the OP is printing in something like ABS rather than PLA. Less eco-friendly, but should produce robust parts (and if you use the old acetone fume cupboard...ahem...plastic tub technique - it can produce some very smooth looking prints indeed.
 
greencat":27cqzmc1 said:
Presumably the OP is printing in something like ABS rather than PLA. Less eco-friendly, but should produce robust parts (and if you use the old acetone fume cupboard...ahem...plastic tub technique - it can produce some very smooth looking prints indeed.

That's why I asked :)

There are all sort of other plastics to choose from, Nylon may be a better choice but I don't know how it's layer adhesion compares to ABS.

Personally I would be trying Carbon fibered PLA as that's suppose to have much better layer adhesion, and look at printing on it's side, rather than the traditional (obvious method) of cylinder print.
Now pausing printing to get a reinforcing washer in there might be a cool thing to try. Many Aheadset plastic caps have these.
 
Re:

My only experience with 3d printed, plastic anything, is brittle and unfinished-looking.

Load bearing seems to be an issue for 3d printed parts.

Certain components that are within a system,...not so much carrying force seems to fair better. Car hub caps for example or, light brackets.
 
Re: Re:

marc two tone":1q5exb7l said:
My only experience with 3d printed, plastic anything, is brittle and unfinished-looking.

Load bearing seems to be an issue for 3d printed parts.

Certain components that are within a system,...not so much carrying force seems to fair better. Car hub caps for example or, light brackets.
Depends on the printer and material.

Mine makes horrible, unfinished looking fairly brittle parts

My neighbours makes bits that can be made to look like commercially produced components (but only ~75% as strong).

Mine cost ~£150, his was ~£700, and he's upgraded stepper motors, head, bed and control board (another £500+)
 
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