2010 Kona Kilauea build, which fork?

Trebz

Retrobike Rider
Feedback
View
Hi All

I'm building a bike around a 2010 Kona Kilauea frame like this:

https://www.thebikelist.co.uk/kona/kila ... 2010-frame

https://singletrackworld.com/2010/09/lo ... a-kilauea/

My question is based on my knowing absolutely diddly squat about suspension forks so, which fork should I use with this frame do you think, I have the below two forks and just wanted your opinions as to which was the best:

Rock Shox XC/32/TK (Like new): https://bike-advisor.com/reviews/compon ... -2012.html

Rock Shox SID Team (Need a service): https://www.mtbr.com/product/older-cate ... 63024.html

Surely the SID Team are the better quality but the XC/32/TK are in such good condition. I don't know. Maybe service the SID's and run with that fork, maybe?

Thanks for your opinions in advance.

Trebz.
 
Re:

For your hefty weight, use the SIDs.

The other forks will work, but the review says they're not sensitive to small bumps. So for what they now call 'gravel riding' they probably don't do a lot, and we know as 'riding'

I assume SIDs are lighter too.

Someone may have used the XC forks to comment though.


Saying that how long a fork does the frame need?
 
Don't know about fork length FluffyC. I'm still trying to understand all this new fangled technology like suspension and hydraulic brakes.

I might just apply Rule 5 and leave the rigid carbon forks on the Kilauea frame hehe.
 
Re:

Right...here we go

There's a bit more work that you need to do. We build XC, DH, jump and other bikes, to competition standards. It's important to get the basics right or you will waste a great deal of time and money.

You need to get the geometry chart for your 2010 frame.

That will give you the crown-to-axle length of forks which are right for your frame.
If you run the forks with 30 per cent sag, as you should do, then you can push the fork length up a small amount - 5-10mm
And you can bother with fork offset too, but that tends to be pretty standard on a bike like yours. But if that fig is given, use it.
Check the stack height of your headset - both for the length of steerer you need (200mm?) and if you have a deep lower cup (some Hopes, Nukeproof, FSA DH Pig) you need to take that into account in the fork length. On an older Ragley, you can add 10mm to the fork travel by going for an internal bottom race.

Some forks can be adjusted for travel - some Rockshox, most Fox - by inserting or removing travel tokens. But it can be a bit complex to do on some forks. Useful to have that possibility though.

Axle standard? I assume 100mm spacing and QR. But you can stiffen things us nicely with a Hope Pro2 evo front hub and 10mm axle options, or the Specialised 10mm axle.
Be aware that forks can be 10mm QR, 15mm, 20mm, thru-axle, 100m or 110m boost spacing.

Then...

Air or spring?
Air is infinitely adjustable but the fork seals need to be looked after. That's no problem, wipe after every ride. Takes a minute, that's all.
Air ramps up. Springs are linear. We prefer air on XC bikes. Spring on the latest gen of DH forks (Fox 40s etc) but not relevant to your needs.

TK - horrid heavy things. OK for smashing around on the pump track. Pretty useless for XC.
SIDs - gorgeous plush air forks, bit noodly if you are over 190lbs. But we are all 140lbs in our pack, and they are truly excellent forks. You will need a shock pump.

TK - cheese
SIDs - chalk

That's about it. There are many many more things of tedious detail, but these essential things will get you sorted.
 
Trebz":2dsg9a16 said:
Don't know about fork length FluffyC. I'm still trying to understand all this new fangled technology like suspension and hydraulic brakes.

I might just apply Rule 5 and leave the rigid carbon forks on the Kilauea frame hehe.

I all with the modern boy with suspension, Marzocchi Bombers are great forks.
Also ahead of you with them hydraulic brakes, they clinch the rims superbly. Magura did a good job there.


Luckily specs are easy to come by
http://2010.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=kilauea
 
which after a search means the SID at 80mm their max is only 445mm axle to crown, you need 100mm travel forks? ~473mm
 
FluffyChicken":3a74n2aw said:
which after a search means the SID at 80mm their max is only 445mm axle to crown, you need 100mm travel forks? ~473mm

So...the SID's won't match the frame? Is that what you're saying?
 
Re:

Goodness ... the chicken doth talk unclearly

He is right in that Kona state that 473 mm is your FL fork length for this frame.

SIDs have come in many different forms over the years. We have had them all.
It all depends on which model and year.

If you physically have the forks then you just measure axle to the crown flat on which the crown race fits. That’s your axle crown length.
 
Re: Re:

2manyoranges":32egx21n said:
Goodness ... the chicken doth talk unclearly

He is right in that Kona state that 473 mm is your FL fork length for this frame.

SIDs have come in many different forms over the years. We have had them all.
It all depends on which model and year.

If you physically have the forks then you just measure axle to the crown flat on which the crown race fits. That’s your axle crown length.

I just measure it, it looks like 445mm.

The rigid carbon forks the frame came with measure 470mm.

So I guess the SID's get sold and I use the rigid carbon forks then hehe.

The SID's came on a frame I picked up a while ago, a 2004 Specialized Stumpjumper M4: https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/value-g ... uct/92379/

I'll probably leave the SID's on the Specialized frame and sell the frame and fork. I'm having a clear out to help finance my current state of employment :)

Does anyone know the right fork length for a 1999 Kona Explosif frame? I have one as my work bike and I'm convinced the TB Kona P2's I have on it are too long.

Edit: I just measured the TB P2's and they are 415mm, so it looks like they are too long for the 1999 Kona Explosif after all hehe.

I might just sell the Kona Kilauea (Carbon) and have done with it. Ppppfffft.
 
Back
Top