2005 Trek Top Fuel 110 Team Issue - Repair and Restomod

Is it wrong to use non period decals?

  • Yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No

    Votes: 12 100.0%

  • Total voters
    12
  • Poll closed .

Mikey08

Kona Fan
This was supposed to be a easy build!.......



A couple of years ago I picked up an old beaten up 2005 Trek Top Fuel. It had mismatched wheels, a fork that didn’t work, and a blown shock. The front Hope Mini carbon brake needed a lever rebuild, and the rear Mavic Crossmax was toast. But the frame seemed ok (apart from the paint) and a idea began to form in my head...

During Covid I'd gotten back into the MTB scene and bought a beautiful Kona Kula frame from Wadsy. (My Kona Kula build) (Some of Wadsys builds). It used to be Pip's (RIP) (The Pip-meister register) and was absolutely mint. I built it up as a retro-mod with more modern parts and really enjoyed it. When the Trek came my way I decided it was time to try some full squish and planned to bolt on all of the parts from the Kula then head out to enjoy my 80mm of rear travel. But its rarely that simple! :p

My Kula
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My Top Fuel mocked up with the parts from the Kula (and a Fox Transfer I picked up cheap, more on that later...)
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Problem number 1: Loose headtube insert

I noticed there was a small crack in the paint towards the back/lower area of the head-tube, near the headset cup. I knew I was going to re-paint this frame anyway so began stripping the paint with anticipation of what lay underneath.

(look closely at the rear of the lower headtube)
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I had hoped it was a just a paint defect but it turned out be a bigger problem. The alloy insert was partially loose and had de-bonded towards the rear. I knew that to repair this properly it had to come out. So, using a few stiff blows with a drift out she popped, no carbon got damaged thankfully!

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I’ll glue this back in with some 3M DP460 structural epoxy. I chose this after doing tons of research and speaking to various companies for advice. Its ridiculously strong stuff and can withstand shock and vibration. Not cheap at £50 for a 50ml tube though!


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Problem 2: Knackered rear end.


The Top Fuels came with two different rocker links: Lower down the range alloy framed versions had an aluminum rocker, and higher carbon models featured a OCLV carbon rocker link.


This no doubt saved a few grams over the alloy version but they tended to wear around the non-drive side pivot point holes. Mine was very worn with the lower rocker bolt hole badly ovalised so I began searching for a replacement. I found an eBay seller that still had stock of the alloy version and I decided to buy one. I could have emailed Trek to see if they had any of the carbon versions still in stock, but I decided the alloy one would probably be stiffer and less prone to wear out.


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In addition to all of the above, many of the rotating parts were badly worn too. I needed a new main pivot bushing and axle, and all the top-hat-style bushings needed replacing.

This was a real concern as there was no guarantee I could get hold of these parts for a 20-year-old frame.

One website called Triton Cycles had the parts listed so I dropped them a email; no reply. Then I emailed Trek UK; a wonderful lady named Sue Skeggs got back to me with a exploded diagram of my rear end (no pun intended) along with a part number list and assembly/torque specs. What a legend!

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Now I was armed with exact part numbers I reached out to Triton Cycles again. They seemed my best bet as they had the parts listed on their website, but again, no reply. I tried the phone, no answer. (After googling them it seems they have a terrible reputation)



I felt a bit stuck at this point, so when I happened to find the email address for the Trek CEO I thought “what the hell” and emailed him. I was later contacted by someone from Trek UK and put back in touch with Sue who organised for the parts to be shipped to me. How lucky was that! 😎

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Problem 3: Me forks don’t fit!



I'd had a nice, white 2012 Rockshox SID XX on the Kula, but when I offered them up to the new frame it was obvious the steerer was way too short. The Early carbon Treks tended to have quite long head-tubes. So I began the search for a new CSU.



I got incredibly lucky here and found a new CSU on eBay for a bargain price due to a small paint chip on the crown. My plan was to repaint my white lowers to match, but a few months later I happened to find some NOS black SID lowers, again on eBay.

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The XX model SID uses a hydraulicly actuated remote lockout that is prone to let air into the system rendering the fork useless. When the line has air in it the fork defaults to the locked-out position. -

Not to mention the design of the XX compression damping is pretty basic. It's simply a port with a small plunger actuated by the hydraulic remote lever.

So I decided to upgrade.....

'XX' compression damper
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RCT3 unit (Edit: MOCO DNA)
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Later SIDs and REBAs used a much better ‘RCT3’ (Edit: MOCO DNA) damper unit with three position lookout (open, pedal, and locked) along with adjustable low speed compression. These came out around 2014 and were eventually surpassed by the 'Charger' cartridge style dampers. The RCT3 compression dampers were designed to work with a improved ‘Rapid Recovery’ rebound damper so later down the line I’ll grab one of those. I’ll use the air spring assembly from my original SID XX.

I also have a new airside topcap which is the newer style that sits flush with the crown and uses a cassette tool to tighten. Its a much cleaner look in my opinion and is compatible with current air volume spacers.

SID XX rebound damper
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Updated 2014 rebound damper

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(Credit to FAQLoad where I got all the info on the forks - Link)
 
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Problem 4: Now it’s the bloody cranks!!!



I have some Sram XO1 carbon cranks that I had managed to get working on the Kula despite them being BB30 standard with the shorter spindle. I figured out that by removing the pre-load adjuster there was just enough spindle to slide through a BSA30 BB (Race Face Cinch). The cranks fit perfectly with no need for shims.



But, along came the Trek again with a new problem to bite me in the arse again. Firstly, the BB shell on the Kula was 68mm and the Top Fuel uses a 73mm shell - bugger! So I needed to find a way to lose 2.5mm off each end of the BB 🤔


I tried installing the cranks without the plastic bearing covers to see if that would work. It did, well almost. I now had a issue with my chain-ring hitting the frame! :rolleyes:



I had used a 3mm offset chainring on my Kula which seemed to give a good chainline. However on the Fuel it just touched the chain-stay due to them being beefier. These older full-sus frames were designed for triple chainsets so clearance wasnt as much of a issue back then.



A zero offset after-market chain-ring was the answer from Garbaruk which was cool because I like the brand and they look trick. So I ordered one in silver.

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(EDIT: I will be restoring the finish on the crank arms later )

However, this revealed yet another issue. Now the bolts holding the chain-ring on were rubbing the outside edge of the drive side BB cup.

I filed down the lip of the cup until it was flush with the bearing to give me some clearance and now were all good finally! I can now tighten the cranks down and get no binding or play in the bearings.

The bearings are a bit notchy so I’ll take the opportunity to install some better sealed ones from Enduro bearings later.


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Thanks for reading 😎

To be continued….
 
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Interesting stuff; you've put a lot of time and effort into this project!

I'll look forward to seeing it progress and come to fruition :)

Cheers
 
I've had the privilege of seeing this gargantuan project undertaken by Mikey in person. It's so inspiring to be part of a build from the ground up. Can't wait to see this master piece being assembled. It's not a 10 grand bike sure but the love and dedication put into a build such this one is what makes it so unique and special. Bravo broski 👏🏻
 
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