2003 Castellano Fango

fennec

Retro Guru
This one might offend, context first, I use this bike for daily commutes to work, about 6 miles each way, nothing crazy. But about 4 miles of that is railroad gravel and dirt. If there’s construction on the tracks, part of it isn’t even railroad gravel, it’s mild singletrack on dirt. It is built to be practical, not really era appropriate, or showcase style. It’s a mixture of stuff I like, and cheap parts that fit the bill.
That being said, 2003 castellano fango, ie a 2001 Ibis Ripley but with the designer John castellanos name on it. It’s an aluminum softtail with flexstays:
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Pardon as it is dirty.
So the drivetrain is Microshift AdventX with the steel 11-48 cassette but the pro shifter, I wasn’t too concerned with weight despite buying a 4lb aluminum frame, it runs a kmc x10 chain, and it’s on a hope evo 175mm crankset with a 34t ring in the front, bottom bracket is a matching hope threaded one for their 30mm axel. Pedals are crankbrothers stamp 1’s.
That’s all been doing me well, got the right kind of range for what I’m doing, I’ve only had to go super low a few times so I could probably do with a larger front chainring like a 36 or something.

The fork is amusing, I needed an uncut fork for this, so I just got one of those cheap Bolany air forks and put fox stickers on it. It’s actually held up really well, because outside of the work commute this is still bombed through the woods sometimes and I’ve yet to really have any issues with it.

Brakes are a premade kit, Shimano mt200’s, though with miles semi metallic pads. The rotors are 160 in the rear and 180 in the front, just cheap no name floating rotors, because they’re blue.

Wheelset is a koozer xf2046 pair, In purple, because they were cheap. I wasn’t originally going to use them for this build, I had them for an entirely different thing, but I couldn’t find the other wheels I was looking for in time and just put them on there, and honestly I think the little bit of purple looks nice. They’re cheap wheels, I don’t expect much, but they haven’t caused me any problems.
Runs panaracer fire xc pro wire tires in blue, though with presta tubes, I’m not a fan of tubeless. I keep a little strap with a spare tube and stuff on the bike.

Seatpost, stem and grips are all Funn, because they’re orange.
Saddle is a Selle italia flite 1990, one of the rerelease ones. Headset is a cane creek 40.
Bars are no name carbon bars, 780mm, they’re fine, I got them mostly because they’re the exact kind of width, rise and sweep I like.

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The pictured entrance to a bit of trail in the woods, when the tracks are being worked on. Otherwise it’s on railroad gravel, anyone who knows railroad gravel knows why something like a conventional gravel bike wouldn’t be suitable.

When I eventually retire this bike for this purpose, as I’ll probably find something else I like for the commute at some point, I’ll try and make this either a bit more era, or go the other way and kit it out with generally nicer parts. It’s a little bit odd having a frame like this for what’s effectively just a really rough rocky commute, lights and all.
 
This one might offend, context first, I use this bike for daily commutes to work, about 6 miles each way, nothing crazy. But about 4 miles of that is railroad gravel and dirt. If there’s construction on the tracks, part of it isn’t even railroad gravel, it’s mild singletrack on dirt. It is built to be practical, not really era appropriate, or showcase style. It’s a mixture of stuff I like, and cheap parts that fit the bill.
That being said, 2003 castellano fango, ie a 2001 Ibis Ripley but with the designer John castellanos name on it. It’s an aluminum softtail with flexstays:
View attachment 837439
View attachment 837440
View attachment 837441

Pardon as it is dirty.
So the drivetrain is Microshift AdventX with the steel 11-48 cassette but the pro shifter, I wasn’t too concerned with weight despite buying a 4lb aluminum frame, it runs a kmc x10 chain, and it’s on a hope evo 175mm crankset with a 34t ring in the front, bottom bracket is a matching hope threaded one for their 30mm axel. Pedals are crankbrothers stamp 1’s.
That’s all been doing me well, got the right kind of range for what I’m doing, I’ve only had to go super low a few times so I could probably do with a larger front chainring like a 36 or something.

The fork is amusing, I needed an uncut fork for this, so I just got one of those cheap Bolany air forks and put fox stickers on it. It’s actually held up really well, because outside of the work commute this is still bombed through the woods sometimes and I’ve yet to really have any issues with it.

Brakes are a premade kit, Shimano mt200’s, though with miles semi metallic pads. The rotors are 160 in the rear and 180 in the front, just cheap no name floating rotors, because they’re blue.

Wheelset is a koozer xf2046 pair, In purple, because they were cheap. I wasn’t originally going to use them for this build, I had them for an entirely different thing, but I couldn’t find the other wheels I was looking for in time and just put them on there, and honestly I think the little bit of purple looks nice. They’re cheap wheels, I don’t expect much, but they haven’t caused me any problems.
Runs panaracer fire xc pro wire tires in blue, though with presta tubes, I’m not a fan of tubeless. I keep a little strap with a spare tube and stuff on the bike.

Seatpost, stem and grips are all Funn, because they’re orange.
Saddle is a Selle italia flite 1990, one of the rerelease ones. Headset is a cane creek 40.
Bars are no name carbon bars, 780mm, they’re fine, I got them mostly because they’re the exact kind of width, rise and sweep I like.

View attachment 837472
The pictured entrance to a bit of trail in the woods, when the tracks are being worked on. Otherwise it’s on railroad gravel, anyone who knows railroad gravel knows why something like a conventional gravel bike wouldn’t be suitable.

When I eventually retire this bike for this purpose, as I’ll probably find something else I like for the commute at some point, I’ll try and make this either a bit more era, or go the other way and kit it out with generally nicer parts. It’s a little bit odd having a frame like this for what’s effectively just a really rough rocky commute, lights and all.
Nothing wrong with that in the slightest. AdventX is a solid drive train, which can't be faulted. I know a fair few folks that like the Big Ali Bolany stuff, can't see how it could be any worse than the terrible retro suspension folks still use. Colours are funky in a good way.

My bikes are littered with mix of generic aliexpress parts, retro bits and whatever I could find when scavenging. Love them all the same

To me this seems a solid workhorse with a bit of fun character too. Good build. Happy riding
 
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Its got a great BikeTractor look to it.

Certainly true when riding on 30mm+ it's not Gravel any more, you need Travel - and air volume to get over it on the flat.
Not many aluminium soft tails out there🤔
 
The fork is just the biggest surprise to me.
Obviously the major issue with these small name cheap parts is quality control and longevity. My experience may be entirely different than someone who’s fork exploded day 1. But I really do like it.

It sounds like spaghetti, lots of squishy noises. But it feels fine, doesn’t leak anything, holds air and I haven’t even topped the air since I got it now I think 8 months ago.
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Same idea goes for the Wheelset, it’s like a $200 new Wheelset which is pretty inexpensive. But it’s also like, it’s wheels. They’re not that complicated. The rear hub sounds super cool and the bearings are still smooth with close to 1000 miles now. It’s definitely better than I was expecting.

It’s been great for the commute. You can kinda see what I’m stopped on in that picture. That’s most of what it looks like on the tracks. Patchy, bumpy, rough gravel. Some parts of it with new gravel are just straight railroad ballast, which is loose and doesn’t have any of the smaller material in it to smooth it out. So the softtail aspect of this bike makes it less of a literal pain in the butt.
 
Revision and specs list for the botm, as things change
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This now has the following parts
-Spanky oozy 780 bars cut down to 740mm
-pnw range stem and loam grips
-drivetrain swapped to sunrace m9 with a black ops crankset, 32t in the front
-origin8 seatpost
-custom wheels, industry nine hydra classic hubs with velocity cliffhanger rims, dt Swiss champion spokes

Rest is pretty much the same, Selle italia flite 1990, panaracer fire xc pro tires, cane creek 40 headset, mt200 brakes 180 in the front and 160 in the rear
 
It’s worth mentioning, this is still used for a daily commute. I still ride this to work basically every day.
Just as a follow up to some of what’s changed. AdventX ended up being kind of a mess. The derailleur developed a lot of play very early on, it was just getting sloppy and difficult to adjust, as well the shifter can’t bi directional upshift.
The M9 is from the now dead Cannondale, and it’s just a lot more reliable and shifts better. Funny considering it’s also a fairly low end piece, but the clutch works better, it shifts better, it moves less…
The wheels ended up getting replaced mostly just because I wanted custom wheels. The xf2046’s are fine, and are still around in case I need them, they never gave me any problems, though currently a rotor is stuck to one

I removed a lot of the orange stuff when I swapped the crankset.
The hope evo crankset and bottom bracket were not a good choice. I bought them because
1) orange
2) a little bit more premium
Turns out a 30mm spindle in a bottom bracket with shallow insertion depth because I had to use bb spacers, wears really fast and really hard. It started creaking and after multiple rebuilds and new bearings, it didn’t go away. The axel was worn unevenly, the bearings rapidly wore unevenly. Supposedly the bb shell is out of alignment, which is not fun but isn’t a huge issue with other types of bb. The hope 30mm bb had huge problems with it because with shallow insertion depth it wobbled a LOT.
I gave up on it and installed the Hollowtech 2 standard black ops crankset and Shimano BB which threads in fully, with no spacers, and the issue went away. It’s been rock solid since.
After doing that I just started removing orange parts, the seatpost actually had a lot of stress cracks on the clamp end and needed to go anyway, and at that point I just put all the cannondales parts on it, the bars, stem, grips, pedals, drivetrain, etc.
This needs to be practical first, flashy is secondary.

The GoPro mount on the stem holds a garmin mount which I use for a headlight at night.
 
It’s worth mentioning, this is still used for a daily commute. I still ride this to work basically every day.
Just as a follow up to some of what’s changed. AdventX ended up being kind of a mess. The derailleur developed a lot of play very early on, it was just getting sloppy and difficult to adjust, as well the shifter can’t bi directional upshift.
The M9 is from the now dead Cannondale, and it’s just a lot more reliable and shifts better. Funny considering it’s also a fairly low end piece, but the clutch works better, it shifts better, it moves less…
The wheels ended up getting replaced mostly just because I wanted custom wheels. The xf2046’s are fine, and are still around in case I need them, they never gave me any problems, though currently a rotor is stuck to one

I removed a lot of the orange stuff when I swapped the crankset.
The hope evo crankset and bottom bracket were not a good choice. I bought them because
1) orange
2) a little bit more premium
Turns out a 30mm spindle in a bottom bracket with shallow insertion depth because I had to use bb spacers, wears really fast and really hard. It started creaking and after multiple rebuilds and new bearings, it didn’t go away. The axel was worn unevenly, the bearings rapidly wore unevenly. Supposedly the bb shell is out of alignment, which is not fun but isn’t a huge issue with other types of bb. The hope 30mm bb had huge problems with it because with shallow insertion depth it wobbled a LOT.
I gave up on it and installed the Hollowtech 2 standard black ops crankset and Shimano BB which threads in fully, with no spacers, and the issue went away. It’s been rock solid since.
After doing that I just started removing orange parts, the seatpost actually had a lot of stress cracks on the clamp end and needed to go anyway, and at that point I just put all the cannondales parts on it, the bars, stem, grips, pedals, drivetrain, etc.
This needs to be practical first, flashy is secondary.

The GoPro mount on the stem holds a garmin mount which I use for a headlight at night.
Hello @fennec, by any chance can you snap a picture from your derailleur hanger?
I’m trying to contact John Castellano but can’t seem to find a response from him, I’ve broke my hanger and need a replacement, thinking on machining one myself, can you help me with some pictures of it?
 
Hello @fennec, by any chance can you snap a picture from your derailleur hanger?
I’m trying to contact John Castellano but can’t seem to find a response from him, I’ve broke my hanger and need a replacement, thinking on machining one myself, can you help me with some pictures of it?
I can’t get it off for proper measurements as one of the bolts has a stripped inset head, but I can give some rough caliper measurements

The oval with the axel through it, the frame half of it, is 29mm wide and 20mm tall, 3:2 oval shape effectively
The holes for the bolts are 22mm apart, axel is dead center but the bolt holes are on an offset axis about 30°
It’s 4.35mm thick at the frame side, and 7.85mm thick at the derailleur side
From when I had this off before I stripped a bolt, there’s a keyed shape in the contact surface on the frame. It’s not flat, I don’t have pictures of that but it’s probably not vital if you’re making a new one.

You could make a functional one with a 3:2 oval 29/30x20mm and guesstimate from there
 

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Swap to Deore XT M8000 11 speed stuff
Last item is replacing the brakes with Hayes dominion A4’s and 160mm d series rotors, not yet here

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This is night and day from Sunrace M9 or adventX and it’s not even finely adjusted yet
 
Last piece of the puzzle, Hayes dominion A4’s

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These are uhhhhhhhhh
It’s Hayes, of course my front caliper has a leaky piston and both are rubbing ever so faintly no matter what I do.

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Honestly that might’ve been a mistake, I shouldn’t have taken the gamble with Hayes brakes having read the dozens of reviews about QC problems
I can rebuild a caliper but man that’s a lot of effort for something that was done entirely for frivolous purposes. And regardless I shouldn’t have to rebuild a brand new caliper.

I don’t know what’s wrong with them, they don’t retract enough so while I understand these are thick rotors and the gap is tiny, I can still tell the pads aren’t fully retracted. I tried removing fluid to intentionally create a low pressure situation and it helped the front a little but not the back. And what good does that do the front when it’s leaking anyway.

Hayes shipped the rotors in a padded envelope so guess what’s bent and also isn’t helping the problem?
 
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