Are you reusing any parts? If not I’d go 1x11. Shimano 11spd is very good and fits a standard freehub. SLX rear mechs are just as good as XT and cheaper. For shifter, XT is worth the extra. More solid feeling and you get the double down shift with one press. Cassette 11-46 in xt or slx, little difference in shifting just down to price. NW ring from superstar or Uberbike, again depending on what’s on sale. Works perfectly well in middle ring position of a triple or outer position of a double crank. May need shorter bolts or run spacers. Ring size of 30 to 36 depending on how hilly your trails/ strong your legs are. Chain, XT tends to last longer than SLX so worth the extra.
1x10 Drive-train components suggestions please
- Thread starter wadsy
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velomaniac
MacRetro Rider
0r you could go 1 x 9 speed and save a small fortune as 11-40t cassettes now exist in 9 speed.
True, but 9 speed mechs don’t have clutches and 9 speed chains have less than ideal width for N/W rings. Both make 1x work without constant chain loss on rough terrain.
I love 1x system. But getting the numbers right is important. I run 1x 12 = 32 + 9-46 which is to big for me. Will go down to 9-36. Also I have a 1x10 = 32 + 10-27. If I could have 9-27 then I would be happy. But that's a road 12 speed and they don't fit. 1.85mm wider than 12 speed mtb.
So experiment with the set up to get the numbers right what ever you choose
So experiment with the set up to get the numbers right what ever you choose
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
I have done loads of 1x9 and 1x10 setups. 1x9 X0 on my cargo bike with 32T NW and SRAM 11-34. It’s a tiny bit gappy. The cheaper X7 on my flat bar road bike I thought actually shifted better than the 9-speed X0 and the Shimano 10-speed 11-34 cassette solves the gaps in the SRAM 9-speed. My go anywhere big tyre bike is drop bars, 105 long cage and Shimano 10-speed 11-34. 34T NW at front.
Chinese NW chainrings are fine, really good in fact, even when the chainline is bad. I haven’t found the need for a clutch, the NW works really well at holding the chain on IMO.
Chinese NW chainrings are fine, really good in fact, even when the chainline is bad. I haven’t found the need for a clutch, the NW works really well at holding the chain on IMO.
Thanks for the further replies chaps 
Not sorted yet; still looking into 'stuff'. I had thought I had a frame sorted, but sending it back!
I found this article which I thought was interesting....
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/tech-deep-dive-on-1x10-narrow-wide-conversion-gearing.1170101/
Cheers
Not sorted yet; still looking into 'stuff'. I had thought I had a frame sorted, but sending it back!
I found this article which I thought was interesting....
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/tech-deep-dive-on-1x10-narrow-wide-conversion-gearing.1170101/
Cheers
2manyoranges
Old School Grand Master
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Well I learned the hard way today on 1x10....
I took a new build to the Downs, and the next-from-bottom cog was DREADFUL - skipping and jumping - everything else and the Hope extender was absolutely fine and precise. So today I took a look and found that a 10-34 XT cassette is incompatible with a 40T Hope extender - you have to use an 11-36, and then the chain stops fouling on the machining on the extender ring. Drat. So took an 11-36 off a COTIC, added a .75 shim between the cassette and the extender to get perfect spacing, and all was well. Phew.
I took a new build to the Downs, and the next-from-bottom cog was DREADFUL - skipping and jumping - everything else and the Hope extender was absolutely fine and precise. So today I took a look and found that a 10-34 XT cassette is incompatible with a 40T Hope extender - you have to use an 11-36, and then the chain stops fouling on the machining on the extender ring. Drat. So took an 11-36 off a COTIC, added a .75 shim between the cassette and the extender to get perfect spacing, and all was well. Phew.
