1999 Pace RC36 Evo II - Pulling the air seal?

[kerryn]

I'm still riding my Boulder Starship with a 1999 Pace RC36 EVO II. I'm now punishing the fork on the rocky slopes of the Front Range of Colorado. Amazingly the fork is still going strong, and is handling the terrain well since I changed the travel from 70mm back to 90mm.

My issue is this. It still holds air okay, as I changed out all the seals a couple of years go. Well all the seals bar one. The top air seal (part number SFUP-905) wasn't replaced as I couldn't figure out how to do it at the time.

Well I would now like to replace this seal. I have it, but not to tools for pulling the seal out of the leg assembly. Do you know what type of tool is needed for pulling and replacing the seal or have any tips on how to do this?

I would take it to my LBS and while we have some awesome shops here in Boulder, I doubt any of them would know how to service a 12 year old Pace fork.

Any help appreciated!

Kerry.

 

[drystonepaul]

Get in touch with justbackdated.
He's a member on here and used to work at Pace so he should be able to offer some good advice.

 

[kerryn]

I had planned to get the spring conversion done by justbackdated once the fork stop holding air, but it still is and also I can't bare to be without my bike for the several months it would take to get the fork sent back to the UK for the modification.

But, I'll see if he has any tips.

 

[dbmtb]

Tim was all out of mod kits last week when I contacted him about the Evo IIIs I have on the way.

If this seal is similar to the ones in some Rock Shox, something like this perhaps?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flat-plastics ... 2014wt_905

 

[justbackdated]

Yes-hopefully getting some springs to carry on with the 'PC2' upgrade for both Evo2 and Evo3.

Seal needs to be removed from the groove carefully so as not to damage the groove itself. I use a pice of alloy tig welding rod with a flattened and smoothed end to hook the seal from the groove.

The seal and groove need to be thoroughly cleaned-inside and around the carbon leg and especially the seal housing area. The groove is then filled with grease[RC7] and the cleaned seal reseated into the slot. It is unlikely you will need a new air seal as it is usually the dirt behind the seal that causes the leaks. If the groove is damaged[look for tiny vertical scratches] then the fork is unlikely to hold air.

There is also a chance that air is getting into the oil damper; if you push the damper rod into the stanchion and it springs back out then you have a pressurised damper and air is leaking past the worn damper rod quad seal; maybe caused by a scored damper rod.
But that is another story

 

[justbackdated]

Oh-btw; don't use any hard[steel] tools to remove the air seal as the seal housing is made of 'chocolate' alloy and they will damage the groove and seal.

 

[kerryn]

Tim,

The fork is not leaking air at the moment. I just had a new seal and it was the only seal not replaced on the fork so I was going to change it as a precaution. But from your description it sounds like I may do better not to touch it (for now).

Damper quad seal was replaced last year so that is good.

What is the turn around time for the PC2 kit? I won't do it now as this is my only bike and I don't want to miss the awesome riding we get in the Fall. I'll wait till January when we might be buried in 4 feet of snow. Of course this is Colorado so in January it could also be mid 60s with dusty dirt trails...

 

[kerryn]

I may try Tim's TIG rod approach, then thoroughly clean and use my air compressor to blow out any dust/dirt.

I'm assuming that a 120psi compressor won't hurt the fork....?

 

[justbackdated]

Turn down the compressor to 60 to 80PSI and you should be fine.

Just PM'd a pic of the tools