1997 GT RTS All Terra Mountain Bike Advice on Bearings and Handlebars/Accessories Due to Hand Pain

[TheJay]

Does that help?

 

[ishaw]

I'd say that chainset is warped, or at least a chainring is. When you spin it up it looks like it's biopace oval, which it shouldn't be.

 

[Nabeaquam]

Hey all, I can't believe my first post was all the way back in 2008 for this bike. Got it out again this year and it's had a decent service.

The chap who serviced it said the bearings in the rear suspension ideally need replacing, but he said it may not be possible to find the parts needed? He also said that's the reason my chain seems to jump every so often when under a lot of tension mainly going up hill?

Whilst I am trying to find out more about that, can I please get some advice on handlebars? There seems to be so much choice these days, I want something longer and noticed when riding I was getting pain in my hands from holding handlebars.

I really have no idea: https://bikepacking.com/index/comfort-mtb-handlebars/

Currently have Specialized XC 640mm Wide Mountain Bike Handlebar 8° Backsweep Lo Rise MTB Black

In the last photo you can see the original GT handlebars. Pretty much the same design as the ones mounted with a narrower clamping point.

I have a road bike so this is intended for trails, mud, stones and rough roads.

Also considering something like this (SQ lab 410 v2):

https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/16v7xfg/sharing_my_experience_inner_bar_ends_comfort

Thanks all.

Flip your hand over so the tendons. Are up. Tap with the fingers of your other hand all over, back and forth in the area where the wrist meets the hand. If you get tingling in your fingers you most likely have carpal tunnel. No handlebar will be comfortable. Micro surgery fixes it. It’s a common problem.

 

[TheJay]

I'd say that chainset is warped, or at least a chainring is. When you spin it up it looks like it's biopace oval, which it shouldn't be.

That makes sense, so I need replacement parts. Isn't there anything new available that is up to the right standard? You said the one I linked wasn't very good but triples are hard to find?

 

[ishaw]

It really depends on what you want. Quality order drive trains have all moved to 1x or 2x, it seems only cheaper end 3x are available new.

Personally if I were in your position, I would be looking for a decent second hand chainset.

If you want to retain the gearing rations you have now, look for something with the same sized/tooth count chain rings. For the same price you would be spending on the chainset you linked to, you will undoubtedly find something much better.

You could go modern in terms of bottom bracket and go ht2 or equivalent (ht2 is available from most brands aside from SRAM who use the gxp bottom bracket/crank axle).

You could stick with square taper cranks/BB too.

Put up a wanted ad with your requirements and see what comes up.

If you aren't at all fussed about period correct cranks, I would aim for something that is ht2 and has a ring BCD of 104. Plenty of options and rings are readily available too as they are/were the common standard for ages until all this weirdness of different bcds and 1x and 2x.

You should be able to pick up.a deore, slx, FSA or even race face for the money you are looking to spend.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16747317...eEG02BlRb2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25688121...eEG02BlRb2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30624226...eEG02BlRb2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30626127...eEG02BlRb2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27705985...eEG02BlRb2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[TheJay]

Thanks for your reply.

I was really trying to avoid changing to to double crank but I think it's inevitable.

ht2 and has a ring BCD of 104. Any recommendations?

 

[ishaw]

I'm done spoon feeding.

 

[Nabeaquam]

I bought an old Touring frame that still had the three chainring bb. I made it into a dandy gravel bike I used an inexpensive triple. The bike weighs 32 kg loaded. I used a mega gear cog. The big jump is annoying but your thankful on long steep hills. I’ve had no issues with it. One of my friends rides his Trek, with a similar riveted together chainrings crank, every day on a stationary stand. He already has 5000k on it this year. He is 80. He recently added up his distance on this chainring. 120,000k. These cheap triples seem okay. I’m not planning on replacing it in my lifetime, depends on how long you want to keep it and how much dirt you ride in.

 

[TheJay]

ht2 and has a ring BCD of 104

I'm struggling wit terminology, which is why you think I am asking to be spoon fed.

Is this right?

• Crank standard: “HT2” = Shimano Hollowtech II
  Chainring fitment: 4-bolt, 104 mm BCD
  • 24 mm spindle, external BB cups
• What's needed:
  
  1. A replacement chainring that’s 4-bolt, 104 mm BCD
  2. A Hollowtech II bottom‐bracket whose cups match your frame’s BB shell (e.g. English/BSA 68 × 1.37″, 73 × 1.37″, BB30, PF30, etc.)
  3. The correct BB shell width and threading/fit-type so those external cups press or screw in properly?

I bought an old Touring frame that still had the three chainring bb. I made it into a dandy gravel bike I used an inexpensive triple.View attachment 955658 The bike weighs 32 kg loaded. I used a mega gear cog. The big jump is annoying but your thankful on long steep hills. I’ve had no issues with it.View attachment 955659 One of my friends rides his Trek, with a similar riveted together chainrings crank, every day on a stationary stand. He already has 5000k on it this year. He is 80. He recently added up his distance on this chainring. 120,000k. These cheap triples seem okay. I’m not planning on replacing it in my lifetime, depends on how long you want to keep it and how much dirt you ride in.

So you think I shouldn't worry and should go with the triples that are available?