1997 GT RTS All Terra Mountain Bike Advice on Bearings and Handlebars/Accessories Due to Hand Pain

[TheJay]

Hey all, I can't believe my first post was all the way back in 2008 for this bike. Got it out again this year and it's had a decent service.

The chap who serviced it said the bearings in the rear suspension ideally need replacing, but he said it may not be possible to find the parts needed? He also said that's the reason my chain seems to jump every so often when under a lot of tension mainly going up hill?

Whilst I am trying to find out more about that, can I please get some advice on handlebars? There seems to be so much choice these days, I want something longer and noticed when riding I was getting pain in my hands from holding handlebars.

I really have no idea: https://bikepacking.com/index/comfort-mtb-handlebars/

Currently have Specialized XC 640mm Wide Mountain Bike Handlebar 8° Backsweep Lo Rise MTB Black

In the last photo you can see the original GT handlebars. Pretty much the same design as the ones mounted with a narrower clamping point.

I have a road bike so this is intended for trails, mud, stones and rough roads.

Also considering something like this (SQ lab 410 v2):

https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/16v7xfg/sharing_my_experience_inner_bar_ends_comfort

Thanks all.

 

[ishaw]

Not sure I trust the diagnosis for chain jumping. The rear end on the RTS doesn't move that much and even if bearings were an issue, can't see how they would skip a chain.

There is either a pair of top hat bushings or bearings in the main frame pivot. Top hats are hard to find but I do have a nos set. Bearings can be retro fitted if you want to go down they route there.

Bearings also in the rocker pivot (4 of) and can be replaced.

Bushings are fitted in the rear chain stay pivots.

Be careful if faffing with these, you don't want to break the stays but they are easily removed and can be replaced, you just need to know the size.

Happy to help with any measurements as I've got an rts in bits waiting to be put back together after a rear disc conversion and the bushings replaced with bearings.

 

[TheJay]

Thanks for your reply. He implied if those had gone, it would be scrap. I'd be interested in replacing bushings with bearings! I just need to know exactly what to order (names, sizes etc).

Wow, I can't find a replacement seat post that's around 26cm long anywhere that can deliver in time for this weekend either.

 

[ishaw]

Nope, no reason a bearing going would scrap a frame unless something terrible happened afterwards.

The rear end bushing to bearing work was done by someone with engineering skills, not a DIY job unless you are similarly skilled (I'm not).

The main pivot bearing switch from bushings is easier as a standard, yet pivoting bearing is needed, as is a little spacer to sit in the middle of them to space them out equally.

What sort of seat post are you after? Got a few spares in 26.8mm and longer than you mention.

 

[TheJay]

I've tried getting local people to make things in the past and they aren't interested, would the same person make another for me?

In terms of seat post, I just want one that clamps onto the rails of the seat. I'm not sure what that's called.

 

[ishaw]

I don't know if the person who did mine would do another, you could try, he's a member on here danson67. I think the rear pivots needed slightly modifying to accept a standard small bearing, I'll see if I can lay my hands on mine, it's tucked away in a box for a rainy day.

I'm not sure I follow what you mean regarding seat post and clamping to the rails, they nearly all do that with the exception of some whacky ones like an I-beam. Rails do differ but if you've a normal saddle, your main concern is a post that's the correct diameter for your frames seat tube (usually 26.8mm on an rts frame), and length that's long enough to have enough of it in the seat tube while getting your saddle at the right height to ride.

There's also layback or inline to consider (pushing the saddle rearward Vs straight up from the post respectively).

 

[bikeworkshop]

Hey all, I can't believe my first post was all the way back in 2008 for this bike. Got it out again this year and it's had a decent service.

The chap who serviced it said the bearings in the rear suspension ideally need replacing, but he said it may not be possible to find the parts needed? He also said that's the reason my chain seems to jump every so often when under a lot of tension mainly going up hill?

Whilst I am trying to find out more about that, can I please get some advice on handlebars? There seems to be so much choice these days, I want something longer and noticed when riding I was getting pain in my hands from holding handlebars.

I really have no idea: https://bikepacking.com/index/comfort-mtb-handlebars/

Currently have Specialized XC 640mm Wide Mountain Bike Handlebar 8° Backsweep Lo Rise MTB Black

In the last photo you can see the original GT handlebars. Pretty much the same design as the ones mounted with a narrower clamping point.

I have a road bike so this is intended for trails, mud, stones and rough roads.

Also considering something like this (SQ lab 410 v2):

https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/16v7xfg/sharing_my_experience_inner_bar_ends_comfort

Thanks all.

Having more than one hand positron makes a massive difference to comfort, because you can move around rather than being frozen in place.
You already have bar ends, you could move them inboard to try that.

Any more advice we'd need to see your position on the bike, stationary and moving, fitness level, intended riding all that stuff.
You've got ergo grips already, it's worth using padded gloves if you don't...
Too low, too far away is common, but sometimes the problem is that the bar is too high, sometimes too close!
Sometimes though it's just how it is