1996 Kona Lava Dome - COMPLETE

[Nick C]

I just found an attic load of photo's including all my mid 90's mountain biking photo's. Amongst these are my brother on the Lava Dome this thread is all about and also the following photo of my own Lava Dome on the day I put it up for sale.

I used to ride with a riser bar (which I think is the red club roost in an earlier photo in this thread), so I presume the flat bar in the photo was the Kona Race Light, replaced for the sale. It's also running the great Rond WP forks, a Club Roost stem, a USE post and I think a Cannondale saddle! Stopping was handled by a set of XTR V's on the rear and Curve canti's on the front. I think the tyres were the original Scratch and Sniff, again replaced for the sale, and were mounted onto a pair of Velocity deep V rims which were bombproof. The front mech and chainset was STX and the rear mech LX, I think.

I used to receive a lot of compliments when out and about on the bike, but to be honest with that stem the reach was far too long for my liking and spoiled the ride.

EDIT: I see the Club Roost bar I mentioned above is actually a flat bar in this thread, so I was incorrect in my presumption!

 

[Nick C]

Well after speaking with the chap who was spraying my frame yesterday (and who admitted that the lady I'd dealt with at the firm was a royal PITA and didn't pass on my messages), I could finally arrange to have it collected.

It arrived with me this afternoon and I have to say I'm a little disappointed. While the finish looks good at a distance, up close the surface is quite uneven, I think because of slight orange peeling...if that's possible with powder coating? It also looks thin in a few places. Because I was unable to get through the chap spraying it when I dropped off the frame and in subsequent telephone calls, they brake bosses etc. were also sprayed!

I've applied the stickers this evening and they look great and I'm watching two pairs of red Judys' on the bay at the moment as a possible alternative to the P2.

So until this weekend when I have a little more time, the frame and forks look like this:

 

[Wold Ranger]

Kona

I've had loads of frames PC'd over the years and 90 percent are done badly, very badly, over in some places under in others, the coat looks really too thick in places to me. What did you pay?
I get a local firm to do mine now and they are very good, with a finish more like custom spray than pc.
Over coating is more prone to chipping and damage and results in Orange peel effect too.
The finish still looks good and will stand a fair bit of abuse now.

 

[majoreyeswater]

Nick.

Funnily enough I had the same probs with the brake bosses on my Lava Dome! Sort of my fault really as I didn,t stipulate with the powder coater my exact requirements :roll:

I suppose if you coat very few, if any bike frames then it's possible to overlook them. Had to carefully remove the coating before fitting the cantis.
The finish on mine is also not perfect but it will do for me. The next time I consider what finish to use I will have to think long and hard about who does the job

Otherwise the white looks cool mate

Steve.

 

[Nick C]

I actually like the chap who sprayed the frame and he only charged me £40, as opposed to the £80 the rather miserable lady, who I originally had to deal with, was going to charge me (which I actually thought was reasonable).

Their company is used to spraying motorbike frames and I imagine for that purpose this finish would be fine, but I am a perfectionist I'm afraid.

If I refurbish another frame, and I rather think I may, I'll certainly know what I need to stipulate in advance.

Steve, what did you use to remove the paint? I was thinking a rather careful application of paint stripper around a masked area, but perhaps a delicate wire brush or wire wool may be better? I've also just discovered the threads in the bottom bracket have a liberal coating and the BB refuses to be screwed in.

 

[majoreyeswater]

I've also just discovered the threads in the bottom bracket have a liberal coating and the BB refuses to be screwed in.

Oops ! Luckily that didn't happen to me. Probably a job for a bike shop with the correct tools to clean out the threads. I cleaned the brake bosses using my Dremel (gently mind!) and a file to try to finish off neatly. I found the coating was quite soft ! Thought it would be rock hard :?

Another cock-up was the stem. I had that coated as well but forgot to advise not to coat the bottom two thirds. Consequently the bloody thing wouldn't fit the steerer tube so I had to remove some coating from here as well.

So the moral of the story is always plan the job and tell the people doing the work EXACTLY what you want done and which bits not to coat

The next frame I get done will be painted by a top notch firm :roll:

Steve.

 

[ekiborter]

Looking good Nick!

I'm sure you will have no problems removing the paint from the bosses and your LBS will have no problem cleaning the threads in the B/B. Probably a good opportunity to get them to face the B/B and head tube too.


I have a question for the Kona buffs here on RB.... is this frame a mid season 96/97?

I ask this as the down tube decal looks 96 to me and the head tube decal looks 97.

edit: or were all 96 Konas mixed typeface head tube to down tube?.. and does that meen my 96 hei hei has the wrong head badge?? aaaaggghhhh!

anyone?

:?

 

[Nick C]

After a fruitless evening trying to fit the BB, I think I will indeed leave this and the headset to the LBS.

I have just won a set of Judys' which I thought would look nice. I know the bikes geometry isn't suited for a 100mm fork, but with a slightly shorter stem they could be fun.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWNX:IT

Any of you clever people know what headset would be required? I tend to think with my eyes and then the brain follows!

The STX cranks polished up nicely, most of the shoe marks have been eliminated, with just a couple of deep scratches and chips, the latter of which I've buffed down. They certainly need new rings, I think my brother was a heavy shifter.

A set of rather nice bottle mounting bolts in black.

Sticker envy.

A couple of original parts mounted again.

 

[drystonepaul]

Looking good so far. In terms of powder-coating; you'll often if not always get a slight 'orange peel' effect on powder-coated frames. The guy I've used is very good and is a former mountain biker himself. I've had about ten or so frames done for myself and others and he always masks the threads and bosses etc. as a matter of course. In fact I've never had to ask him to.
He is also very reasonable price wise.

Anyway, I'm sure the extra effort will be worth it in the end. The Curve levers are also a good choice and if it were me I'd stick with the P2's and go for STX-RC for the shifters and mechs. Reliable, functional and a very reasonable.

 

[Skeelsie]

You can get rid of the orange peel with T-Cut on a microfibre cloth and then apply a good coat of wax.

Remove excess powder coat on brake bosses with a craft knife.