1995 Sunn Radical 2 FULL BIKE PICS 05-09-2010

[Dr.Robotnik]

Woot! Fresh off the lathe is a new set of pivots. I'd show you a pic but my camera battery just died.

Previous pivots should have been 10mm diameter but were worn to 9.6mm in places! Hopefully with new pivots, new bearings and some shims the back end slop will be sorted.

If only Sunn could sort some spares.

 

[Dr.Robotnik]

Here are the new pins on the right, old pins on the left and part of the suspension linkage showing the phosphor bronze bushings.

I would like to know if anyone thinks I would get better performance out of an Iglidur Polymer Plain bearing? And also possibly changing the material for the pins? Aluminium or Stainless perhaps?

Does anyone know what model Iglidur plain bearing is already used on bikes?

http://www.igus.ie/wpck/default.aspx?pagenr=5182

 

[Dr.Robotnik]

So fresh from the lathe again we have a new main pivot bearing cover. I only ever had one for this bike and am glad to finally have a complete set. New one on the left, original one on the right. The new one just needs a little de-burring to do on the inside.

Speaking of which, I have started de-burring the front axle bolts which have been heavily used. I only got to take a couple of cuts but you can see one face is a bit shiny(ish) the uncleaned bolt is on the right and the partially cleaned one on the left.

Finally as I had the bike out test fitting the new pins I thought I'd take a pic in its fully disassembled state, with an old Sunn jersey for good measure. The bike is hard to picture now as it's partially polished and the chrome is very shiny.

Thanks for looking.

 

[xxejen]

great !!

you should havo use wd40, it is very good for old sunn !!

 

[Dr.Robotnik]

^ What would some WD40 do? How should I use it? I don't have any water to disperse you see.

I passed the forks onto RC300 off here for a full fork service because of numerous issues. There is an ominous rattle from one side, I remember a leak in one leg, it has OBSYSS top caps and I recall being told by Tim Flooks that one stanchion is bent....

I have my fingers firmly crossed as this is a full on job. Good luck my friend.

 

[oldschool]

awesome love retro downhill bikes

 

[Elev12k]

Great project. Looks not like an easy job you got yourself into. That will sure give you a very satisfied feeling when done in the end. Of course the frame itself is worth the effort

Can't remember I have done something that big with one bike.

Btw on your QR question from the 1st page: No, it is the wrong one. Looks like a slightly older DX to me (if it has the rubber o-ring on the screw part). Could be it was original team spec though. They are sturdy QRs.

 

[Dr.Robotnik]

Thanks a lot for the kind words, it's nice to get replies even though this project is moving at a snails pace and there's not much to look at so far.

The project is quite involved only because of the use this bike has seen in its life, so pretty much everything needs to be redone. I am also only taking this on, as it was my first proper DH bike. You should see the state of the previous all rigid DH bike I ran That's never coming back.

Btw on your QR question from the 1st page: No, it is the wrong one. Looks like a slightly older DX to me (if it has the rubber o-ring on the screw part). Could be it was original team spec though. They are sturdy QRs.

Thanks for addressing my QR question, but I am not sure of your answer. Do you have a picture of an old DX item so I can see what it's like? Perhaps it could be the old XTR as that had an o-ring on one side too?

 

[Elev12k]

No it is no XTR. XTR m900, XTII and DX all used a screw on part with rubber o-ring. Light cognac colour for the XTR, chrome for XTII and DX. The XTR skewer came with a sophisticated mat finish for the lever bit, XTII came with chrome finish with rubber sleeve and DX chrome without rubber sleeve. Yours just like that.

LX looked like DX, but came with a more cheapish chrome screw on part without rubber o-ring.

Later XT (like of the generation your hub is) came with a new QR design using al for the QR bit. Furthermore a cheapish al/plasticy screw on bit.

 

[Dr.Robotnik]

I see what you mean after checking into the M900, however I can't see much of an o-ring in the picture I posted. Maybe if you had a picture of the QR you think it is I could make my mind up?

No idea where I'd find one either. Hmm.