1995 Lava Dome ATB

[dirttorpedo]

Do 31.8 bars fit in those 25.4 clamps? Just had a fiddle around and went on two quick 1 min rides and it seems like my bars are way too low. If I raise my stem converter as high as it'll possibly go it feels almost right, well exceeding min insertion. I think I need to size up... Here's some photos of what I've got set up at the moment.

No, you need a 25.4 bar for those stems. Nitto / Rene Herse and others make 25.4 clamp rando drop bars. Otherwise vintage riser or flat mountain bike bars will work. The only 31.8 clamp quill stems I've seen are for 1 inch head tubes.

If you really want to run 31.8 bars and threadless stems/headsets another option is to look for a used threadless 1 1/8th fork. Kona did make P2's in that configuration for a period and Tange, Surly, etc. made them for a while as well.

Troll fork https://surlybikes.com/products/troll-fork

Soma 26 inch fork https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/crmo-mtb-fork-cantilever

Carver https://carverbikes.com/parts/forks/26-steel-fork/

I'm sure you can find a bunch of similar forks on your local Amazon or Aliexpress. You can also probably find something used on your local facebook marketplace, Craigslist, etc. Just be careful the axel to crown and rake are close to what you're running now and you will be ok. Or keep using the threadless adapter.

You can get a high rise threadless stem as alternative as well. Here is an example from Decathlon
https://www.decathlon.ca/en/p/87968...DVa2kxay50Q8mhVM2oaQ8j73lwt2VzPI9I_puFzv7f3-M

 

[originsoundd]

No, you need a 25.4 bar for those stems. Nitto / Rene Herse and others make 25.4 clamp rando drop bars. Otherwise vintage riser or flat mountain bike bars will work. The only 31.8 clamp stems I've seen are for 1 inch head tubes.

If you really want to run 31.8 bars and threadless stems/headsets another option is to look for a used threadless 1 1/8th fork. Kona did make P2's in that configuration for a period and Tange, Surly, etc. made them for a while as well.

Troll fork https://surlybikes.com/products/troll-fork

Soma 26 inch fork https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/crmo-mtb-fork-cantilever

Carver https://carverbikes.com/parts/forks/26-steel-fork/

I'm sure you can find a bunch of similar forks on your local Amazon or Aliexpress. You can also probably find something used on your local facebook marketplace, Craigslist, etc. Just be careful the axel to crown and rake are close to what you're running now and you will be ok. Or keep using the threadless adapter.

You can get a high rise threadless stem as alternative as well. Here is an example from Decathlon
https://www.decathlon.ca/en/p/87968...DVa2kxay50Q8mhVM2oaQ8j73lwt2VzPI9I_puFzv7f3-M

Wow thank you, this is super useful. I think I'm going to try find a bigger frame anyways. My commuter is an 18"!

 

[dirttorpedo]

Wow thank you, this is super useful. I think I'm going to try find a bigger frame anyways. My commuter is an 18"!

Oh, I'd definitely want a touring bike to fit more like a commuter. Probably a good call. If you do replace it maybe look for something a little later vintage that has a taller stack height as well - those earlier bikes tended to be low and long for XC racing. Something in the 97-99 vintage perhaps?

 

[DrDaveTampa]

I'm typically looking for 50-75mm rise in the handlebars to get myself comfortable on a 90's mtb frame.

MX style handlebars work for me, if I'm looking for good handling, and the ability to handle rough terrain. Think Surly Sunrise, VO Klunker, something like that. (The VO Utility Riser Bar is very interesting, I bought one for an upcoming bikepacking build but haven't tried it yet.) If you don't want to spend that kind of money, you can pick up some old Magura or Renthal 7/8" MX (motorcycle) handlebars, they work just as well, are OG-fabulous and there's a million used ones out there for cheap. Any of those, paired with a BMX stem would be fantastic for that frame.

For more of a gravel/ATB kinda feel, or for better handling on long uphill grinds, I'd go with some North Road style bars. They will go well with your Velocity stem, should be plug-and-play. Check out the Rivendell website for examples of what I'm talking about (Albatross and Bosco in particular) and setup tips. Ditto, the Blue Lug website. Note how you need a grip area that's extra long, and the right diameter (22.2mm) to fit mountain bike controls. You don't necessarily need to spend that kind of money, there's a million used/vintage North Road style handlebars out there, pick a bend you like and go for a ride. That's probably gonna be the quickest way to get yourself on the road.

In the long run, for an actual rider, I'd be thinking about upgrading to threadless. Stridsland makes a great touring fork specifically designed for early 90's mountain bikes. Leave the steerer tube long enough and you may be able to figure out a way to make those Jones knockoffs work for ya ... although much as I love the Jones design, it's not for a 90's race frame imo. Making those work is gonna be a tall order, so to speak

 

[originsoundd]

I'm typically looking for 50-75mm rise in the handlebars to get myself comfortable on a 90's mtb frame.

MX style handlebars work for me, if I'm looking for good handling, and the ability to handle rough terrain. Think Surly Sunrise, VO Klunker, something like that. (The VO Utility Riser Bar is very interesting, I bought one for an upcoming bikepacking build but haven't tried it yet.) If you don't want to spend that kind of money, you can pick up some old Magura or Renthal 7/8" MX (motorcycle) handlebars, they work just as well, are OG-fabulous and there's a million used ones out there for cheap. Any of those, paired with a BMX stem would be fantastic for that frame.

For more of a gravel/ATB kinda feel, or for better handling on long uphill grinds, I'd go with some North Road style bars. They will go well with your Velocity stem, should be plug-and-play. Check out the Rivendell website for examples of what I'm talking about (Albatross and Bosco in particular) and setup tips. Ditto, the Blue Lug website. Note how you need a grip area that's extra long, and the right diameter (22.2mm) to fit mountain bike controls. You don't necessarily need to spend that kind of money, there's a million used/vintage North Road style handlebars out there, pick a bend you like and go for a ride. That's probably gonna be the quickest way to get yourself on the road.

In the long run, for an actual rider, I'd be thinking about upgrading to threadless. Stridsland makes a great touring fork specifically designed for early 90's mountain bikes. Leave the steerer tube long enough and you may be able to figure out a way to make those Jones knockoffs work for ya ... although much as I love the Jones design, it's not for a 90's race frame imo. Making those work is gonna be a tall order, so to speak

Good to hear from someone with experience in what I'm trying to achieve! I've bought a frame to swap all the bits onto - a 17" 1998 Orange P7, and bought a fork for it too. Threadless zenith curved blade with v brake mounts, off of bicyclist.cc . The frame has a shorter top tube than both my Kona's so should be better. Since I have a threadless fork too I can have as much stack height as I like.

I have a pair of Nitto Baby Bosco's on my Hahanna and I quite like how they feel so I might have a look for something with more rise and backsweep, shame all the Nitto's are 25.4 clamp. I hear what your saying about the Jones bars! Looking at some photos of bikes set up with them it does seem like the geometry I've got is totally different to what they are typically used on. I suppose something like this raised H bar would work, but I don't really wanna pay that price + shipping! I do have a pair of Surly Corner bars but I assume I'll have even more issues with those than the Jones.

 

[originsoundd]

Oh, I'd definitely want a touring bike to fit more like a commuter. Probably a good call. If you do replace it maybe look for something a little later vintage that has a taller stack height as well - those earlier bikes tended to be low and long for XC racing. Something in the 97-99 vintage perhaps?

Grabbed myself a 1998 Orange P7 in 17".