1994 Specialized Stumpjumper

[markz]

Re:

73x110 BB with 48/38/28 hits the chain stay, 28 is bent in when put on crankset.
I know they are 42/32/22, but is my BB the correct length, could someone measure it, no specs anywhere show what the BB length should be, maybe its 118.

Sheldon Brown website is where I got the length from, I will double check. Yeah. Guess I am buying 42/32/22, good news is its only $5 for used gears, I will just buy a whole crankset 42/32/22 for $5.

 

[Gruff]

Re:

markz

I'm in the process of building up a '93 stumpy and have the same cranks and am putting a 73 x 110 BB on as the spec from sheldon browns website says 107 to 113 spindle length so thought i'd try the middle first


**Edit** Ha ha! you beat me to it!

 

[markz]

I've been thinking about my issue's building this bike from "frame-up"

The proper BB for this bike is most likely 73 x 113, then the FD would most likely work properly.
Right now: I have a clamp adapter on my FD, brings it from 31.8mm (FD-Shimano M-530 Deore, 31.8mm clamp, top swing, bottom pull: it is off a 2007 Specialized Crosstrail Expert) to 28.6mm
I believe this 31.8mm FD clamp adapter brings the FD out from the seatpost just enough so that I can not properly adjust for the smallest crank. That and the 110 BB. I need to epoxy on a square nut onto the right spot on the outter cage for it to work properly. Which it does now.

I do not know if you can get a true 28.6mm FD's without any adapters. I haven't bothered to look.
However if there is truely a FD with a true 28.6 clamp with no need for adapters then the 73x110 just might work.

Like I said my smallest crank is not the stock Tooth count of 22T, its more, so with the 73x110 my larger smallest crank touches the chainstay, which is why I had to hammer the chainstay in a bit. I took the smallest crank off, the middle crank touched chainstay with no hammering. My middle I think is 48/38/28. But the 110 BB does not move the different Tooth counts cranks further out. This just reiterates the need for a 73x113 BB and/or a true 28.6mm FD clamp with no need to achieve the 28.6 with any adapters.

My bike is working and shifting great now. I feel a little bummed I had to hammer in the chainstay for the cranks to fit.
Its an old bike, I will be making a custom high powered mid-drive electric motor setup out of it anyways, so most likely I will be welding onto the frame.
I already have an ebike, the motor is a MXUS 3000W V2, with a Infineon 18fet 65A, 72V Controller that is programmable. The bicycle frame is a department store all steel frame from a nationwide chain store called "Canadian Tire" that has the down tube changed from normal setup. It holds the battery box. So 3 down tubes holds a battery box in place and locks. Cradles it. I have gotten up to 60kph on the default settings. Changing settings gets me up to 85kph with 72V batteries.

This is the age in which North America and England are consuming ebikes up, Asia has been there for eons with their cheap ebike products.

 

[Gruff]

I've been thinking about my issue's building this bike from "frame-up"

The proper BB for this bike is most likely 73 x 113, then the FD would most likely work properly.
Right now: I have a clamp adapter on my FD, brings it from 31.8mm (FD-Shimano M-530 Deore, 31.8mm clamp, top swing, bottom pull: it is off a 2007 Specialized Crosstrail Expert) to 28.6mm
I believe this 31.8mm FD clamp adapter brings the FD out from the seatpost just enough so that I can not properly adjust for the smallest crank. That and the 110 BB. I need to epoxy on a square nut onto the right spot on the outter cage for it to work properly. Which it does now.

I do not know if you can get a true 28.6mm FD's without any adapters. I haven't bothered to look.
However if there is truely a FD with a true 28.6 clamp with no need for adapters then the 73x110 just might work.

Like I said my smallest crank is not the stock Tooth count of 22T, its more, so with the 73x110 my larger smallest crank touches the chainstay, which is why I had to hammer the chainstay in a bit. I took the smallest crank off, the middle crank touched chainstay with no hammering. My middle I think is 48/38/28. But the 110 BB does not move the different Tooth counts cranks further out. This just reiterates the need for a 73x113 BB and/or a true 28.6mm FD clamp with no need to achieve the 28.6 with any adapters.

My bike is working and shifting great now. I feel a little bummed I had to hammer in the chainstay for the cranks to fit.
Its an old bike, I will be making a custom high powered mid-drive electric motor setup out of it anyways, so most likely I will be welding onto the frame.
I already have an ebike, the motor is a MXUS 3000W V2, with a Infineon 18fet 65A, 72V Controller that is programmable. The bicycle frame is a department store all steel frame from a nationwide chain store called "Canadian Tire" that has the down tube changed from normal setup. It holds the battery box. So 3 down tubes holds a battery box in place and locks. Cradles it. I have gotten up to 60kph on the default settings. Changing settings gets me up to 85kph with 72V batteries.

This is the age in which North America and England are consuming ebikes up, Asia has been there for eons with their cheap ebike products.

Please don't hammer the chainstay any more!! I will pm you as we are cluttering the OP's build thread.