1979 Carlton Professional Mk.5 - restoration advice needed

[Guinessisgoodforyou]

I use Mer or auto glym, lay the bike on its side and use plus gas penetrating oil.
Some gentle heat with a blow torch helps. It will cause expansion and contraction which will help break the electrolytic corrosion.

 

[AlexC1981]

I was a bit overdramatic in my previous post, after a second dose of penetrating oil they came out without a problem.

My 15mm socket won't fit in the crank and I need to buy the right spanner for the bottom bracket , so I think that's the frame on hold for the time being.

 

[bikeworkshop]

You can grind a 15mm socket to fit in a cotterless crank, but you should get a crank extractor with the socket head built in, cos you'd need an extractor anyway.


Lbs should have one.

As for the bb, the lockring should be an easy remove, a plumbers wrench or similar, protection for the chrome if required.
The drive side looks loose already, so a large adjustable should get that out.
Then you can clean it up and see if it's worth saving.
Different bbs use different tools, so you could hold off on the v proper tools until you know what's going back in there.

 

[AlexC1981]

Thanks. That looks similar to the one I have, but it's only 14mm. I'll get a new one for next weekend and the fun can continue!

 

[chickendrumsticks]

Hi All,

I'm new to this hobby. I recently did some light restoration/recommissioning work to a Raleigh Equipe that I picked up very cheap as a bike that I could leave at the station without worrying about it getting stolen. I enjoyed tinkering with the Equipe so much that I've been on the lookout for another project.

I would really appreciate any advice you an give me regarding products, methods, tools and as well as replacement parts. I'm going to need to buy some proper bike tools. I have no experience removing bottom brackets or dismantling hubs etc. I dismantled the Sach-Huret derailers on my Equipe, cleaned up, greaced and reassembled, ditto for the brakes and replaced the cables, but that's about the limit of my experience.

It's a 1979 Carlton Professional Mk.5. They only sold this a frame rather than a complete bicycle. Reynold 531 forks, stays and butted tube frames. I bought it from a gent who owned it from new and raced competitively. He's modified it over the years and it has a mix of components from Italy, France, Spain and Japan from every decade 70s to 2000s! I'm going to keep the 70s/80s parts and replace the rest with period parts.

Bits I think I'll be keeping:

Campagnolo Record headset, pedals and toe clips.
Ofmega Competizion crank.
Zeus brakes (apparently made half decent Campagnolo style brakes).
Cinelli stem (not currently fitted).
The front wheel is Mavic with a Campagnolo hub.
I think the seat post is also Campagnolo.

The derailleurs and freewheel (or cassette?) are 90s Campagnolo and Shimano so they are going. I haven't decided what to replace them with yet, but I will probably keep it European to match the period parts. The handlebars and brakes are modern unbranded. I'll replace with a period drop down Cinelli bar to match the stem.

First thing I need to do is find out how best to clean the frame without damaging the decals.

The paint is pretty solid so I want to enhance and preserve where possible. On the Equipe I was happy to use a car paint touch up brush, but I want to do a better job with this, without going so far as a respray.

Thanks for reading.

Alex

So you bought this, not the Mottram! Very nice.

 

[AlexC1981]

Yes, though if I'd costed up all the parts I wanted for the Carlton in advance, I might have ended up with the Mottram instead

Super Record rear derailleur incoming. Record front derailleur. Cinelli handlebars. Weinmann brake levers.

I would have gone for the Neuvo Record, but I have a 28 tooth cog on the back and the NR only goes up to 26.

Can anyone recommend a black leather saddle? It's supposed to be a Brooks Professional, but they don't look very comfortable.

I'm thinking about fitting bar end gear levers. I don't have the best sense of balance and struggle with the downtube levers on my Equipe.

 

[bikeworkshop]

Can anyone recommend a black leather saddle? It's supposed to be a Brooks Professional, but they don't look very comfortable.

The wider b17 is nice looking and a lot of riders love them

 

[Corsa of Course]

I found that you can rub back the original laquer layer using aluminium cooking foil, a bit of WD40 or equivalent helps. It is so soft it doesn't scratch. Then it helps get rid of the rust with a bit of vinegar to neutralise any rust remaining. Then relaquer with a rattle can.

The foil will leave the paint intact if you want it to. Aluminium foil is also good for polishing pedals, rims, spokes, chrome, chainsets anywhere there is rust or deep ingrained dirt that a wash is not shifting.

Paint I have never been any good at other than a respray, I have had some succemss using a brush and very thin paint and build layers, but others have much better results than I do.

 

[Corsa of Course]

I use Mer or auto glym, lay the bike on its side and use plus gas penetrating oil.
Some gentle heat with a blow torch helps. It will cause expansion and contraction which will help break the electrolytic corrosion.

Plus gas is really good stuff.

 

[AlexC1981]

I'll try the WD-40 and aluminium foil I picked up some T-Cut as well today.

The handlebars and front derailleur have arrived. Pictured here with the stem I intend to use.

The derailleur is filthy, but looks to be in fair condition and in working order. I think it will just fit in my sonic cleaner.