17.5" Dave Yates 853 (sadly stuck seatpost)

velocipede

Senior Retro Guru
I built this up for my mate probably ten years ago as a very nice runaround - he's not a mountain biker as such, so it's been used as a "riding around" bike and not had a hard life at all. It had new brakes and drivetrain at the time (only Deore) so was meant to be functional rather than fancy

Handbuilt Dave Yates frame, built in Reynolds 853 with fillet brazed joints & Ritchey cowled dropouts. Plenty of scratches and a bit of surface rust here and there but in generally good condition for its age. Would benefit from a respray (see below)

Good bits:

• Fantastic Pulstar hubs on Mavic rims
• Trvativ Stylo triple crankset
• Rockshox forks – not sure of model but working fine
• Shimano Deore v-brakes, shifters and mechs (9 speed)
• Titec bars
• Unbranded stem and seatpost
• Bontrager saddle

Bad bits:

• Sadly the seatpost is stuck in the frame – not tried too hard to remove it. As it’s in need of a respray anyway, I had intended to strip it for that and would have sorted the post anyway.
• As above, could do with a respray.

The bike is in Wrexham. Ideally collection only (social distancing being met!) as packing the bike, with the seatpost stuck in, might be problematic.

Bargain access to a custom built frame by one of the best builders in the UK, with other highlight being the wheels. Gears, brakes and forks are functional, just not of the standard this frame really deserves – it should be dressed in XTR really!

Let me know of any interest and I'll put you in touch with my mate directly via mobile/txt

£300 given the seatpost issue
 

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Re: Re:

whiteguycalledomar":c7ppmbf8 said:
Anyone looking for seatpost removal techniques, hit me up


Or start a thread and share the techniques for others, just in case they are different to ones posted on here before :)
 
Re:

Will be looking for seat post removal advice when this bike arrives!

Anyone got any thoughts on what I should build it up with?
 
Re:

There's so much seatpost showing should be an easy ish out

I would say go for a few days of penetrating oil. Few times generously each day. Upside down best so it runs down to seat. Through bottom bracket or bottle cage holes.

Then buy 1 plumbers freeze spray and dump that inside the seattube same method. They are easy available for around 5 to 10 pounds. Try and get bike or frame upside down and spray the seatpost from the inside.

Seatpost contracts quicker then seattube. Few hard yanks and the post should be stuff but movable
 
My seat post removal advice is as follows

Forget about penetrating oil etc. Strip the bike of its parts. Is the seapost expendable? If so, take the saddle and wheels off the bike and saw the current post 1 or 2 cm from the top so you've removed the saddle clamp section and have a nice bit of post remaining

Now ,make a scratch on the post where it meets the seat collar. Then on a hard-ish surface (a doormat will work, or a spare bit of carpet remnant on a concrete floor), flip the frame and drop it lightly, seat post first. Make sure the post is as directed at the ground as possible, so the force you're generating is moving straight through it. The idea is to use the bike's weight to dislodge the post slightly, a bit at a time. After a couple of drops, have a look for the scratch mark to see if the post has moved at all. If it's moved, you've dislodged it. If it doesn't move, give it a good few drops but be very careful not to use too much force at the risk of submerging the post into the seat tube completely

Once the post is dislodged, hopefully you'll be able to twist and pull it out by hand, or with a rubber grip. If you can't, the best way to get a purchase on it is to insert a threaded quill stem into the post, tighten it up inside it and use it as a handle to twist the post out

This process worked for me - hope you have some luck!
 
Why not hit the post with something instead of droping the whole frame on the floor? and its not going to work on stuck posts, just stubborn ones :)
 
Because you risk hitting the frame with whatever you're using. Dropping the frame (I'm not talking about letting go of it) provides more accuracy
 
I'd go with the penetrating oil first/freeze and try that as mentioned. Worst case chop the post 2" above top of seat tube then find someone with a receip saw (i've a Milwaukee M18 battery one - money well invested) with a long metal saw blade, slowly run the blade down the inside of seatpost and keep stopping and checking until you're virtually all the way through - the alloy will saw much easier than the steel seat tube... do this down 2 or 3 sections of the post, I then use a long flatblade screwdriver and carefully chisel down the post to get it to collapse on itself and pull out with long nose pliers/mole grips.
 
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