130 in 135 Yes or No?

Retro_Roy

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hi
anyone had success or failure trying to use older 130mm rear hub
in a slightly newer, old frame with 135mm dropouts?
probably not the best arrangement. but it is do-able?
am i flirting with disaster?
comments and experiences please
roy
 
I am guilty of doing that both ways. I want to go cycling not faff around worrying about 2.5mm.

But then it depends on the frame. My stuff is hardly worth worrying over
 
Re:

Swap out axles with a 135 hub and put in extra spacers inboard of the locknut. 2.5ish a side usually works. Some cases you have to go a bit more or less on either side to get the freewheel in the right location. Done it numerous times.
 
Re: Re:

FMJ":3oeedmk3 said:
Swap out axles with a 135 hub and put in extra spacers inboard of the locknut. 2.5ish a side usually works. Some cases you have to go a bit more or less on either side to get the freewheel in the right location. Done it numerous times.

Reminds me I've got one of these to swap out when I get around to ordering the new axle.

Carl
 
I've done it.......a titanium or steel frame will take it no problem, but I'm more sceptical about bending about an alloy frame.......the spacer route is probably the better option......
 
Re: Re:

FMJ":1kulberm said:
Swap out axles with a 135 hub and put in extra spacers inboard of the locknut. 2.5ish a side usually works. Some cases you have to go a bit more or less on either side to get the freewheel in the right location. Done it numerous times.

I find this to be the best way to handle the situation. Your lbs will more than likely sell you a second hand one for next to nothing if not simply giving you one. Its simply a matter of playing the +/- game with the spacers to get a correct chain line and wheel alignment. No reason to sacrifice that perfectly good working wheel just because its comparatively a bit narrow.

(^_^)
 
feetabix":1q17o2ko said:
I've done it.......a titanium or steel frame will take it no problem, but I'm more sceptical about bending about an alloy frame.......the spacer route is probably the better option......


My Ti spacing was 132.8mm ;)

As to an alloy. Ive watched an engineer( a real one with many years experience in the bike trade too ). We bent a modern rockhopper back into shape after a car had seriously bent the rear stays.
Then sold it :D
 
My Clockwork wheel came with a 130mm rear axle and I had no problems despite the 135mm spacing on the frame.The same wheels were put on my first Cannondale project and caused much grief.Basically the chainstays did not bend,the rear drop out did,twisting inwards and causing gear shift problems as the rear mech was not vertical,so depends on frame.Changing to a wheelset with 135mm axle solved the problem.

For my latest Cannondale project I bought a 135mm axle and made the change.On the first run through I put the spacers equally on both sides,however the cassette was then too near the fat stays.On the second attempt I put a large spacer on the cassette side and a small spacer on the other side.The cassette was in the right position but the wheel was no longer central in the frame.I had the wheel re-dished for £8 down my LBS and everything is now perfect.
 
Are the hubs between 130 and 135 actually any different? The freehub must be identical as the cassette is the same. Surely the only difference is the axle and spacers and these are a piece of pi** to change anyway (say the man who hasn't bothered yet).

Carl.
 
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