1 x 10 vs 1 x 11

[NeilM]

I kind of ended up buying a hand made cx frame at the end of Bespoke this year. :facepalm:

Anyway, not one to hop onto the 'gravel' band waggon, I thought I'd hop on the 'gravel' band waggon and get building.

I have a silver seatpost that came with the frame, and will be fitting Ritchey Classic drop bars, probably 44cm, I have ordered some Hunt wheels, which will be here in August, so now is time to sort out the running gear, and so my question.

Originally I was going to go 2 x 10, with easier CX type gearing, but doing some quick calcs it turned out that I would only be gaining a few road ratio's if I went that route, so then I thought 1 x 11.

Trouble is, this kit is all so new that the prices are still a bit through the roof so I am now thinking 1 x 10, using SRAM and a mix of road shifter and mtb rear mech. I have done this on my 29'er using a dinner plate cassette and tiny chain ring, so by using something like a 38 or 40 tooth chain ring and the same sized cassette, I could get the best of both worlds.

So, has anyone messed with 1 x 11 or 1 x 10 or both who could give me a view on either / or / both options?

 

[scottproonly]

Re:

viewtopic.php?f=41&t=351082

I did this recently and I love it.gonna write up a full review soon
Kes

 

[NeilM]

Re:

Cool, that's pretty much what I am thinking about, but on cx / 700c wheels.

 

[Woz]

Personally I would go with a 2 x 9 or a 2 x 10 set-up.

A 46T and a 34T with a 11-28 road cassette will cover most paved and unpaved sections respectively.

The gear range depends a lot if you are running knobblies or faster rolling semi-slicks.

 

[NeilM]

Personally I would go with a 2 x 9 or a 2 x 10 set-up.

A 46T and a 34T with a 11-28 road cassette will cover most paved and unpaved sections respectively.

The gear range depends a lot if you are running knobblies or faster rolling semi-slicks.

Probably gravel type tyres, tubeless.

The 2 x 10 set up is what I started out with in mind, before a trader let me down with a rear mech and I started to look at other options.

Here's the frame.

Brakes will be FSA SLK canti's.

 

[Woz]

Re:

That's rather nice. Is it custom? Kind-of retro-modern how I like things

I'm not too familiar with SRAM gubbins. A Tiagra silver-ish 10 speed gruppo would look
alright on that, except you would need the CX70 top-pull FD though.

http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bik ... x70-b.html

You going for cantis or mini-Vs?

 

[scottproonly]

Re:

A 46t front chainring with an 11-40 cassette will give you a greater range than a 46/34 with an 11-28 cassette
Plus you have the simplicity of no front mech!
I am a real convert to 1x systems!
Kes

 

[NeilM]

Re:

It is custom, but was built about 15 years ago. The builder has been riding it since then, but repainted it this year and brought it over to Bespoked Bristol. I saw it, as King were next to my son's stand, asked about it and was given some details about the mixed tubeset (mostly Columbus). At the end of the show Mark (the builder) was talking to my son and it came out that we would take £250 for the frame and forks..... and here we are.

Build wise I want to go reasonably high spec and light, which was why I was thinking SRAM Force22 to start with, then Rival 1 and now I am thinking a combination of Force shifter(s) / brake lever(s), X0 rear mech and if I go that way, Force front mech.

Brakes will be FSA SLK's, as I already have them and they work amazingly well.

The Hunt wheels will be black, so it will be a black / silver mix, as I was struggling to get tubeless rims and nice hubs in silver.

It won't be used for difficult offroad terrain, I have a garage full of mtb's that will do that a lot more effectively, mostly it will be road, fire roads, and bridleways.

 

[Woz]

Re: Re:

A 46t front chainring with an 11-40 cassette will give you a greater range than a 46/34 with an 11-28 cassette
Plus you have the simplicity of no front mech!
I am a real convert to 1x systems!
Kes

Perhaps, but you won't get the close ratios. Off-road is not so important to have a "big jump", but on
a fast bit of fire road or paved road it's a great asset. It's nice not to have the 2CV experience of
being "in-between gears".

I will concur that having a FD is a bit of pain, especially road ones that stuggle to change under load. The secret
is to find the right chainring sizes for "off-road" and "paved-road" while keeping you somewhere in the middle
of the cassette for a good chain-line under typical terrain for your preferred cadence.

 

[Woz]

Re: Re:

It is custom, but was built about 15 years ago. The builder has been riding it since then, but repainted it this year and brought it over to Bespoked Bristol. I saw it, as King were next to my son's stand, asked about it and was given some details about the mixed tubeset (mostly Columbus). At the end of the show Mark (the builder) was talking to my son and it came out that we would take £250 for the frame and forks..... and here we are.

Build wise I want to go reasonably high spec and light, which was why I was thinking SRAM Force22 to start with, then Rival 1 and now I am thinking a combination of Force shifter(s) / brake lever(s), X0 rear mech and if I go that way, Force front mech.

Brakes will be FSA SLK's, as I already have them and they work amazingly well.

The Hunt wheels will be black, so it will be a black / silver mix, as I was struggling to get tubeless rims and nice hubs in silver.

It won't be used for difficult offroad terrain, I have a garage full of mtb's that will do that a lot more effectively, mostly it will be road, fire roads, and bridleways.

That's a good deal. A bit strange to have horizontal drop-outs, but then again it gives the option of SS.

What is the rear spacing? 130, 132.5 or 135?

If it's your first time on a CX, then you will be surprised how capable they are. A CX can reallly motor where
a MTB will start to be sluggish on fast hard-pack terrain. The biggest problem with CX is traction on difficult
and wet terrain.