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Can also be used as a cheese grater😄.

He hasn't been challenged by a modern plastic Batavus chainguard. They are nearly as intricate as performing heart by-pass surgery. You need a steady hand and a cool head. Real karma killers IMO.

The view i have of them is they are meant to be ridden at a liesurely pace to work, the shops or anywhere that isn't too hilly or too far.

It's not the type of bike that inspires one to "race" around town or down to the shops. They have the sitting geometry alike a 1972 Bedford van and often weigh about 15-20kgs. Intresting curiousa about Bauke Mollema👍. He has won a few prestigious races and now we know why.

A "dutch" bike is a utility bike, used to ride around town or to the shops or work. There is absolutly nothing "sporty" about them. Just take a look at that chainguard, a bicycle repairmans nightmare. Just sayin.

I consider it as a kind of silencer to reduce the annoying chainrub that comes with 2×11. That's my theory anyway. I could be wrong but I don't think Shimano will either confirm or deny.

The higher the TPI, the better the puncture protection. I only have experience of the Vittori a tyres, I have used them a few times and think they are good value for money. I have convinced myself that they have good road holding qualities. You can sometimes pick them up as a deal package...

I'm inclined to believe that the spokes are a tad short for the hole they were meant to go in. In order to get some workable tension on all the spokes i had to put them in the "wrong hole," as I interpreted the spoke hole pattern and the fact that they were angled. It might have been built...

Maybe, we may never know. It feels most probable that the spokes are the wrong length and to get past that problem i had to put the spokes in the wrong hole. As I saw it, the spoke holes are angled for entry. When i did this, i was able to tighten all the spokes. It seems that i did something...

The wheel is assembled and all the spokes now have some tension. I just have to live the fact it's a bodge, to use the term of a well known YT channel. I am hugely gratefull to those who took the time to offer their knowledge and help me in my quest👍👍.

Project Update. All the spokes are in place with the only difference being that the valve cannot be accessed from NDS. To achieve this i had to enter the spokes in the wrong angled spoke hole to get the spokes to be "the right length." This may be interpretade as a variation of the truth? I'm...

The previous photo is wrong.

I don't understand what you mean by "flipping the spokes to the other side. Believe me i always advocate the method of taking photos first and then rip it apart. It's a pity my son didn't hear that before he got his grubby hands on it. I think I have a headache coming on the more i think about...

I don't have the old spokes, I eventually threw them away. If I have to reveal the truth, I built up this wheel 3 or 4 years ago after the rim had been repainted. My son asked me if I could build the wheel. He had already taken it apart without taking photos, measured and ordered the spokes. I...

The hub flanges do have different diameters. I have measured the spokes numerous times, there isn't much difference between them. As I understand, the number of times you cross the spokes is dictated by the number of spokes. In my case it's 36.

I've tried 3 cross nds but the spokes aren't close enough to be able to thread on the nipples.

I went 3X crossed DS, 2X crossed NDS. NDS spokes poke out too much. The headout/inners are trailing on NDS. It didn't look as though The spokes were long enough for 3X.

If the hub had drilled holes it might have been a whole lot easier maybe.

Is it necessary cross the spokes or should be able to lace them straight? The spokes are 3mm thick. Of course crossing them affects the length of the spokes and the wheels stiffness. Straight lacing seems to be applied when building an mc wheel and the rim diameter is less.