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These also sometimes get stuck because of the gear displays. I've fixed a couple by taking the display off and setting them up correctly.

142mm is non-boost thru axle, 148mm is boost spacing if I recall. It's still pretty common for DJ frames to use the old standards of 135x10mm bolt on hubs. I'm sure some have used BMX standards too, that being 110mm rear hubs I think. I would get whatever frame had the right length top tube...

One of the worst things was removing the posted questions and answers from the bottom of the auction listing. You could choose to post the question/answer for all to see if you thought it was going to be useful, or just to avoid repeat questions.

That is a Bontrager logo, so Trek house brand. I'm not sure they use that logo on anything now, but they had matching ones on rims/tires that lined up.

What rims were you running with 35mm internal width? I might have some trials rims in 26" that wide, and long ago I had Arrow racing DHX rims. The DHX more so, but both are basically boat anchors. You could get 45mm internal Surly 26" rims for super cheap right before all the industry...

Re: Did someone drill out the cable stops to run full housing?

Also I think for a Z-1 mount one of those sets of bolt holes would be the smaller M5, they wouldn't all be standard M6.

In the Z-1 each cart does one thing. One is compression, the other is rebound. When cycled by hand with oil in them you can feel the resistance, one will be the opposite. In a Z-2 the cart only does rebound, and you only have the one rebound adjuster. You can't really take them apart, that's...

I mixed up the cartridges when I took my Z-1 apart. You can tell them apart if you fill a cup with oil and cycle them with that hole submerged. Good thing to do anyway, as it cleans some pretty gross stuff out of the cartridges. I had to do one of them a bunch of times, still wasn't perfect...

Re: ISIS overdrive was an earlier attempt at something like the current T47 shell. It's a threaded BB shell, but way oversized to use more durable/larger bearings. I have never seen a frame that actually used the standard in the wild, just didn't catch on.

Some FIR rims had a very large lip next to the tire.

Someone was also certainly modifying the top assembly to accept a threadless compression ring. We have one around the shop with the threads removed, it has what appears to be a Dia-compe split/compressong ring.

Not sure about the really early ones, but every older Turner I've seen does not have pivot bearings. They all have bushings, with obvious grease zerks at the pivots.

I've honestly never had issues with decent ISIS bottom brackets. Have an FSA with like 10k miles on it, that is the nicer four bearing model though. Just don't buy anything Truvativ, or Raceface SRX and you're fine. All the FSA ones are good in my experience, better Raceface ones too. There...

This only works with american/bmx 1" head tubes. It's already very close to 1-1/8", can be reamed to fit, or with some creative cup/race swapping can just work as is. Usually what's going on if you see a klunker thing with a modern fork.

If it's long enough to just cut all the threads off, then yes.

I've seen some pretty good stuff, but the shipping to the US has always been insane. Like $15 NOS rims, and $40 each for shipping.

I have the same pair, but only one shoe is new. Somebody swapped one side for the half size they wanted.

I feel like I should post pics of my Alpinestars with lowered orange Z-1. Currently using the dual disc mounts for fenders...

Re: Re: The Sunrace comes in both friction, and indexed for the left shifter. I have no idea why, but I wound up with one of the index ones by not paying attention.