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BB depends on the chainset not the frame, once you are past the 68/73mm shell dimension.

Oh they are obsolete now, grandad. Nobody runs gibblewangers, they have been replaced by wangibblers. Shimano say it's the only way to go, a total breakthrough and a steal at £249.99 each. WANGIB-tech ZRX for the win!

The old 531db tubeset had overly thick fork blades, so much so that in a crash the frame would bend and the forks survive. That's clearly a daft design so custom builders might use a different tubeset for forks if for no other reason than to save a little weight. That said, it may well simply...

If you are a heavy rider or bend rims then go for the M6. However the 231CDs have survived 15 years on my tourer.

Schwalbe Billy Bonkers - fast tread and it's surprisingly grippy apart from in mud.

For setting up brakes & gears and routine build / servicing tasks then Park Tool do excellent videos and I would recommend starting there.

Advert posted 11 years ago!!!!

I tried out singlespeed 15 years ago. The first month was horrible, but I got fitter and stronger really rapidly. Interestingly my descending and cornering also improved as I sought to conserve speed. It's still my go-to bike for riding off road. Throwing away all that gear lark saves a 2-3kgs...

Probably 34T, but it depends on the hanger length on the frame. It will be more if you fit a goat link. The span depends on the angle of the parallelogram, not the cage length, which determines the amount of tooth difference that can be accommodated. Honestly, you are massively overthinking...

I'm with @pigman - that's steel. Looks like late 90's to me, when steel went to fat downtubes. It also fits with no downtube bosses, just cable guides for ergos. My money would be on a 1 1/8" headset as it also has an ahead fork.

Yes, with 6-9 speed MTB. After that the cable pull changes and I'm not sure - the mechs require more cable and I've never tried to see if there is enough. 10 speed road rear mech is compatible with 7-9 MTB so is also going to be OK.

Some do some don't.

I can't believe I'm reading this. There is massive overthinking going on. Buy a Cyclo one, they cost a tenner. Mine is still going after 30 years...

I think you are massively overthinking this. Do some changes, ride, then do some more. @FluffyChicken is right. That said, for a gear much below 20" (so something like 24 front / 30 rear or 22 front / 28 rear) you will be riding at around 3 mph uphill. Any lower and you might as well get off...

They will be counterfeit. Some may be OK, others not.

Size: get a tape measure out and measure centre-centre. Probably what looks like an 0 when painted over is a C or D.

Damn, I live nearby and had to drive to St Andrews a couple of 10 days ago. I am likely to be up there again late October if that helps.

No, that's a 74mm inner - min size is 24T. But here's one that will go to 22T, it's M563 Deore LX not Alivio, seller can't count either, it's a 22T inner £14...

Yes they will, but seriously, there is no need for a gear lower than 20 front / 30 rear (about 19") unless you are pedalling a rickshaw in Sheffield. 20-46 would be about 2 mph at a 90rpm cadence.

I was trying to keep things simple...I could also add in SRAM and Shimergo...