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Careful! @gfk_velo 's answer is for the ROAD Centaur chainset, the MTB one takes a longer BB

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365178291412?itmmeta=01JAG9VG40BKXC2BSB4HT45EFA&hash=item55065284d4:g:T5YAAOSwgjJm-xwP&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Mxmj%2BiGvOveHXEBClPb29jg5oc7xg2gzszlFAg9eHmnwbxTQwpUxINtSxA4wUSu6YkW6nhrKyQtHd1gQazoR60khRK%2BBY2whAFzbsWHuAvlTE2dkIJFnLDWe6zhCx72WU2Bta0q8LGW7iSlmTzs5Rq%2FHCXM...

I don't think there is any difference in the bolts TBH. The chainring holes are the same diameter and the rings the same thickness.

Just need a good clean in my view. Blast them through with some WD40 and regrease the innards. Generally they are called STIs, Flight Deck is the Shimano name for the (failed) system where they had a special matching computer (from Shimano of course).

IIRC there was a 49D or similar on the Cycling UK forum earlier this week. You can get them to run as triples with the longer chainring bolts.

No problem, yep they take 110-115mm. Definitely you would be pedaling like a duck!

I've even used Shiply for a tandem, they did a good job.

Got a Campag Chorus or Centaur (Road). Choice of outer ring, 48 or 53, 39 middle and 30 inner. Also with BBs to suit. Say £50 for the Chorus, £40 for Centaur, £15 each for the bottom brackets?

The Dawes badge on the top tube is a repurposed seatstay cap - obviously because they chose a different seat cluster design they couldn't fit it in the usual place. A nice detail that. You can just see one on my Edge XT 653, not a great pic as the gear cable outer passes over it! The script is...

Better to report to Mavic. I have the same thing with FB's paid ads.

A worn Shimano Dura-Ace rear and a Fulcrum front? Both black rims, 24 and 20 bladed spokes. The rear has had a life but has still got some left. I can add lightly worn Conti GP4Seasons 23C tyres and tubes. £60 posted. Save me from wanting to build up a winter singlespeed crosser with them!

It's awfully tricky - you need to make a special tool to open it up, after which there are a zillion tiny ball bearings. It's easiest to dismantle the hub, undo the freehub body (10mm Allen Key down the inside from the right), and refit a new one. SJS Cycles carry them, or buy an old 7s hub and...

Have a read here... https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/its-an-attack-its-a-hawk-trakatak.387371/ Hint: BSO = Bicycle shaped object. Different to a bicycle. It's the sort of bike to leave at the station safe in the knowledge it will still be there when you return.

Have a look at the catalogues in the Archive section.

Viking Vision from (IIRC) 1978, 27" wheels, blue/purple frame in 531. I can't remember much more, I liked it but not enough to not sell it to a pal after a year or so, sometime over 25 years ago.

SunRace do freewheels up to 10s. However I would buy a hub motor for freehub.

Got this small Kona Fire Mountain, 16" in Kona speak, more like a 15" for anyone else. https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/16-kona-frame-92-95.477976/post-3573523

I'd disagree slightly in that there are plenty of 7s freehub systems around: all the way from 1989 to 1997 it populated bikes from the midrange downwards. You can also get 9 and even 10 speed cassettes to fit, simply omit the smallest sprocket for an 8-from-9 or 9-from-10. Use the appropriate...

I agree 100% about the horrid 20" Fat Bikes which weigh 40kgs and the Deliveroo nasties. All this should get us to a place where the decent ones with Bosch motors etc in the bottom bracket just become another category - and that bike shops then have enough stability in designs to be able to...

In order for just about anyone to get up a hill, then a gear range of around 20"-26" is needed. Showing my workings: 25"/29" = 0.86. Using an 12-36 cassette (readily available) then that's 30T inner, maybe if he's fit a 34T Something like 90"-100" for top, so that's around 46T outer, although a...