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Yeah, that sounds like an old school CX set up, 42x18 is a massive lowest gear though, so i'd not be venturing into the peaks!

53/39 at the front i guess, and it's more likely to be 13-18, that was a stock straight through 6 speed freewheel BITD That's what i used to use for flat time trials 35 years ago.

I've got an assortment of the XC, trail and DH pedals dating back ~20 years. (I do have xc6 and 8s though.) They all have a broadly similar feel. I've never used or needed any tension adjustment. Some are less reliable than others!

A properly fitted helicoil will be stronger than the original thread in a chunky piece like that. The trick is fitting it properly...

I went HO to a series of shimano (and shimano alikes from Wellgo/RItchey) and then to Time, which are the closest you'll get to the HO feel with a modern, and easily available pedal.

Might be freewheel pawls if you're losing pedal resistance but not skipping

And if the OP follows all these vague factoids about bike fitting that belong in the dark ages, he'll STILL more than likely have a bike that isn't set up properly.

Wait? What? You think the price of consumer toys is based on what they cost to make? Hahhhahhahhahahhahhahhhaahahhahahhhahahh. They're priced against what the market will bear. Even the pig iron stuff from Argos

I've done it, Ultegra on my old DX equipped Trek 970. More recently (late 90's) i managed to get a couple of XTR short(er) cage mechs (One conventional M950, and a rapid rise M951 (that one may be medium cage, can't remember actually)

Not a lynskey, I've had a hold of a handful of those over the years and is a far less aggressive spiralling than that!

doesn't the black end cap replace the green cone thingie on the disc side?

https://www.porkchopbmx.com/nos-dia-compe-1268-seat-binder-bolt-bicycle-brake.html Best image I could find...

The last one of those I saw, the little hole is for a stop screw that should rest against the frame to adjust the cable position/tension, the big hole is for the ferrule on the outer cable to seat into. Or for a threaded adjuster.

Nope, that's the right way round. Might need to give it a jiggle, the cradle and post top can get sticky/gouged, stops the free movement of the two parts...

Might just be bike mechanics then, or useless punters. 😉 We did the same at my work a few years ago and most of the skilled fitters were within spec just doing it by hand. A couple of them could even tell when the (specially prepared) torque wrenches were out of spec... They still use torque...

TL-PD63/33 is the tool pair you need i think. Trying to modify other tools to do the job is an exercise in gaining grey hairs and not actually managing to get the job done properly! TBH, i'd just ring a few shops until you find one who can do the work with the right tool. Or just buy one...

IIRC essentially everything up to when we started seeing through axles is cross compatible. And even some (?) of the newer hubs still have the same bolt. (Not needed to strip down any T-A hubs yet to check though) Only exception was some D-A and XTR hubs which weren't compatible according to...

I've got Nick Craig's actual CX frame in the attic. So they do surface every now and again. (He only rode it once, as it was built wrong 🤦‍♂️)

Hopefully you've stripped the cups, so should be able to pull them out (bearing puller i guess. Press on the axle, pull on the flange of the cup, and hope, should be able to tap the other side out once you have the guts of the bottom bracket out.) Then replace the bottom bracket. (Clean up the...

Yeah, my CX bike ran most of a D-A 9 speed groupset for several years. Lasted well. Except the shifters...