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Yes, sorry, sloppy use of language and a lazy post! You're right though, glazing or polishing is usually from maintaining them at the same, high, temp for ages, under pressure, without either stopping or releasing the brake. Dragging on overly large discs *seems* to be a fairly common cause of...

Yeah, they do look "totally dry" but they aren't. Best way to test is to completely clean and dry the brakes, put a brake block in, wrap some tissue/toilet paper round the caliper and pull the lever to the bar, leave for a while, and you'll find oily toilet paper...

Some of the automotive cleaning/detailing stuff that people buy to make bikes shiny are all but impossible to remove, short of actually burning them off. I have a test car at work that had a handprint on the drivers side window that we had to actually mechanically scrape off. Nothing else...

Don't use petrol either! That's a pretty rubbish brake cleaner for bikes. Plenty of heavier oil fractions in there that will remain on your disc. Something like IPA, Acetone, electrical contact cleaner (sort of brake cleaner, but no oil) or proper "bike" brake cleaner.

Just be aware that some brake cleaners contain a light oil, ok on cars, terrible for bikes Check there are no leaks on the piston seals, some models/batches of shimano calipers had some leakage issues (loss of power and contamination of the pads/rotors. You'll have to google for which ones!

Just had one of my kids friends complaining that she can't pedal her bike properly because the saddles too low. Turns out her dad didn't have a 5mm hex to tighten it up..... So it's just fully inserted and wedged into the frame (fixed now) He also didn't tighten up the bolt holding one half of...

Maybe it's because it's too small for you? (joke)

Get an extractor fan or two and some grills. My garage had a damp problem, new high capacity fan and cleaning up the extraction grills means that the only damp that got in there this winter was snow dropping off the car.

Theoretically more risk of glazing pads as you'll never get them hot enough, though 180/180 are unlikely to be more of an issue than 180/160 anyway. Unless you are a hardcore brake dragger. I've done 180/160, 160/160 and 160/140 and none of them make a huge difference until you're really going...

I do now... 🤦‍♂️ More of a hurricane though...

No, a raleigh custom build, and a principia. I had a scott where i had to take the bottle bolt out with the original 350mm pin as the pressure built up enough to make it an effort to push down. The shorter Easton pin i replaced it with has a flat on the back, so slides in and out smooooothly.

No, Specialised Enduro Elite, in about 2002. Utter gash. One of only two bikes i've regretted buying.

Correct, should be a telescoping fit, virtually no wobble at all. I've got frames that fart when i push the post down.....

If you want full mechanical the BB5 Road is a good one when set up correctly, but adjustment needs to be kept on top of. BB7 Roads are more expensive, but work better, easier to adjust. If you want a hydro/mechanical, HY/RD are apparently quite good. But spendy-

:D I've got a 400 quid powercrank with some (minor) heel rub.......

Errrrr, lower frames, not smaller... they're usually designed around having a longer post. A smaller frame size might not be. I'd be careful, the last frame i bought that i was on the cusp of needing the next size up, i bent the seatpost (and i was a featherweight then!)

The main purpose of my first FS bike was to get to corners slightly sooner and travelling slightly faster than i was expecting, then to get pogoed off into the dirt, because, essentially, it was shit. A mate got pogoed off into the barbed wire fence between corner and dirt, so i can be grateful...

It's ok, 50% of the time i'm annoyingly between gears. All my 2x and 3x bikes shift flawlessly at the front anyway. Including M95x shimano, and bodged up 2x/3x systems with chainrings from different manufacturers and mechs/shifters from wildly differing generations of shimano and so on. I'll...

Always worth a try with the track pump, just need to pop the valve core out to get a better flow sometimes. I can get maybe 70-80% of tyres to seat like this.

Depending on which rim it actually is, 90% or more non-tubeless tyres will go up without complaint. (Some tubeless rims are just useless.) Also, If it's a non-tubeless or a tubeless ready tyre, it'll almost certainly need sealant. Running without is a fairly pointless exercise anyway. It was...