Search results

It's a double. You can see the steps to keep the rings concentric on both sides of the tabs.

A suitably sized Hinged Hook Wrench *might* get enough purchase.

Only time I've taken spares was on a 120km marathon event in the pouring rain. Didn't need them. Properly bedded in pads should last hundreds of km

It'll almost certainly be a disaster. Try and find a shock of broadly similar dimensions 165x38 is probably what you have today, and still widely available at many price points 205x60 (i think) is what you want to fit. Its completely the wrong stroke and length, worst case you'll break the...

And horrendous warranty/quality issues when they try stupid stuff without thinking about it properly. (They didn't get to be called crack'n'fail for nothing!)

Ahh, got ya. Yes, bikes are a lot cheaper than they used to be, compared to wages.

Not sure i'd call a transition an "Everyday Runaround".

There is the Shimano leaky seal issue. Alignment of the caliper and facing of the mounts. I've seen all three cause noise and vibration.

Nope, they'll still fit. Just don't pump them up too much!! (Though that's half the point of tubeless...)

Boiling water, lots of boiling water. Couple of kettlefulls, then drift it out....

Stage 1, Scrub the inside of the tyre. Gets rid of mold release and allows the sealant to wet the inner surface of the tyre, rather than beading up and running off.

Yeah, i've been running various studded tyres for the last 15 years, on the CX, the 26" and now the 29er. They go on in october and stay on until march. Still, if the tyres and rims were the same size, they would have gone on, might be fitting technique, or tight, stiff steel beads... or a...

Tubeless/not tubeless rims makes no difference as to whether the tyres will fit. Ditto with the tyres. As long as the size is the same, all combinations will work. Might be a bit tight though.

Got any pictures of the detail at the top of the seat stays. That looks fairly unique/unusual.

I feel the same way about Zaskars. Have ridden both (Attitude and Zaskar) in the early/mid 90's, and i found that for the money, and what i wanted them for, they really weren't all that. I bought something much cheaper (Team Titanium Raleigh) and kept the extra for race entries and travel etc...

Scrub the inside of the tyre (gets rid of the mold release agent, allows sealant to wet the inside of the tyre) Leave the tyre inside out for a couple of days to give it some shape and push the sidewalls as far apart as possible. Fit with a tube first to get it stretched and seated, unseat one...

No, not at all, don't worry about it! TBH, it's exactly the sort of thing i'd expect to read on STW actually! Someone claiming a massive difference, given that it's a ~0.2mm change in diameter. In a hydraulic system using relatively low viscosity oil at low pressures. More likely to be a bleed...

Seriously? 😂🤣😂 The difference is barely measurable at MTB brake pressures. Certainly well below what's perceptible without accurate measuring equipment.

I've got two, bought the original as an experiment (65% discount because it's an odd spec) used through two Swedish winters. Bought one for the best bike, that's done 18 months. Neither of them have missed a beat. Popped the oldest one open a few weeks ago. Didn't even need a proper service...

Anything MTB can be run tubeless given a decent job of installing. Half of my tubeless equipped wheels are either not tubeless rims, not tubeless tyres or simply not tubeless at all.