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Depends really, use a lightweight recon cassette and i'm not sure whether the regular replacements will be service or breakage, same for something like a carbon-ti chainring, or the faff that latex tubes can be (sometimes) or stans podium/olympic rims (that might need a true after anything...

1000miles? If it's a race bike it'll probably have been through a fork and shock service (or three), couple of sets of pads, two or three sets of tyres, probably more. Plus a few cassettes and chains (depending on where it's been raced....) And at least a couple of complete recablings...

Depends. I do. Most hardcore weight weenies have a "show spec" version of the bike (all but unrideable) and a "race version" which usually adds a kilo in wheels, tyres and pedals. Notable exceptions to this are Dangerholm, who has some serious issues. Serious issues that i wish i had, total and...

It's either a photo taken using a potatocam, or it's had a fairly significant front end impact and bent the fork crown/stanchion tops (more likely both)

+1 always start by straightening the hanger. Masses of "unsolvable shifting issues" are simply solved by aligning the hanger correctly. (No, a new frame/brand new hanger is NOT a guarantee that the hanger is aligned correctly!)

Most wheel builders use spocalc or the the manufacturers spoke length calculator to work out spoke lengths. Or the old look up tables. Which were mostly from DT Swiss. They're all derived from the same basic bits of trig anyway. And very easy to use. (Or they have a battered old note book with...

Is it? I just plug the dimensions into a couple of spoke calculators for a logic check, then order the correct length in a suitable type of spoke. Only time it comes unstuck is with Ambrosio rims, they don't seem to know how to measure in mm...

What are the new hubs. Is the geometry close to XT of that generation?

Looks like another candidate for the standard dustcap removal tool - TL-FC21. Just need to double check the spacing between the pins.

Open sports are pretty much visually indistinguishable from Open Pros, So if 28s are good to go on your open pros, they'll be fine on open sports. (i've run 33s and 35s on open pros before now, no issues)

Where is it rubbing?

Just don't overtighten it.

Isn't it the old Ron Kitching logo on the crown?

Think they stopped the custom option a few years ago, tried to get some for the ex (before she was ex), computer said no.

I've stopped it by scrubbing the inside. The sealant then seals the sidewalls, rather than just splashing on. And sweating through.

It's the same shimano tool that you use for the back of chainring bolts. (TL-FC21) Or the smallest (red?) park springy pin spanner works.

I've had to stop to change V-pads before now (20 years ago though!) I guess it depends how the race is progressing and what the course is like as to if it's worth risking losing time replacing pads, or not being able to slow down at a critical moment. No, you need a compound that suits what you...

I would guess it's some sort of threaded shaft or grub screw that is either threaded into (so one on each side) or straight through (most likely) the seat tube lug to give some mechanical strength to the joint and a surface for the glue to bond to.

Depends. I've seen them go from brand new to 2/3rds gone in a single race. If i'd lined up with perfectly serviceable, half worn pads, i'd have been without brakes for laps 5 and 6... which would have been fun.

Yeah. Tyre levers can work. Some disc pistons really don't like being pushed in off centre though (Shimano!) and they'll crack/shatter. So, careful using tyre levers! Also. It's far far better to take an existing part worn pair of pads out and have them as your spares rather than trying to fit...